[s-cars] RS2 EM Swap Special Tools??
Scott Munger
scottmunger at cox.net
Fri Apr 30 11:15:39 EDT 2004
The process is exactly the same, you just stop when you get the turbo off
(the next step after the turbo is the manifold).
--Scott Munger
'93 S4
'02 Jetta GLX replaces '97 Cabriolet - Let out to pasture
> -----Original Message-----
> From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
> [mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com]On Behalf Of
> Andrew.Jackson at bmo.com
> Sent: Friday, April 30, 2004 8:10 AM
> To: Sean Douglas
> Cc: 'Fifield, Douglas'; s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com;
> s-car-list at audifans.com
> Subject: RE: [s-cars] RS2 EM Swap Special Tools??
>
>
>
> Excellent instructions.
>
> Now what if one already had the RS2 EM and only wanted to
> swap the turbo?
> How much of this would be overkill?
>
>
> ALJ
>
>
> |---------+------------------------------->
> | | "Sean Douglas" |
> | | <quattro20v at telus.ne|
> | | t> |
> | | Sent by: |
> | | s-car-list-bounces at a|
> | | udifans.com |
> | | |
> | | |
> | | 04/30/2004 10:53 AM |
> | | |
> |---------+------------------------------->
>
> >-------------------------------------------------------------
> -----------------------------------------------------------------|
> |
> |
> | To: "'Fifield, Douglas'"
> <Douglas.Fifield at TENNANTCO.com>, <s-car-list at audifans.com>
> |
> | cc:
> |
> | Subject: RE: [s-cars] RS2 EM Swap Special Tools??
> |
>
> >-------------------------------------------------------------
> -----------------------------------------------------------------|
>
>
>
>
> Here is the message originally posted by Jerry Scott:
>
> Sean Douglas
>
> -----------
>
> Here's a write-up that I did back in 1997 for the RS2 manifold install
> in a 93 S4. This might be helpful in your attempt, in addition to the
> one just posted by Bill Mahoney.
>
>
> The replacement of the standard manifold with the RS2 manifold is a
> somewhat difficult task, but is reasonably capable by anyone who has
> done mechanical auto work previously, and by someone who has
> a complete
> set of standard metric wrenches, metric sockets, metric allen
> wrenches,
> and a Mapp gas torch. You will also need a floor jack, a
> bench grinder,
> and a mechanic's trouble light. If you take your time, and are not
> frustrated by difficult to reach nut and bolt locations, you will find
> it a rewarding challenge. Three standard wrenches, (one 15 mm.
> combination, and two 12 mm. combination) will need to be modified by
> grinding and bending, to accomplish the task. The wrenches were about
> $3.00 each.
>
> 1) Start by jacking up the car on the driver's side, (at the
> lift point
> under the front door), and remove the plastic bottom cover by turning
> with a screw driver, 8 quarter-turn screws. You may
> alternately want to
> run the front of the car up on ramp stands, instead of using a floor
> jack.
>
> 2) Drain the radiator of coolant from the plastic valve at
> the bottom of
> the radiator on the driver's side, into a container. This is necessary
> since you will need to disconnect two water lines from the turbo.
> Alternately, you may try to catch the coolant in a bucket
> under the car,
> when you disconnect the turbo water lines, in a later step. The engine
> should be cool before starting this procedure.
>
> 3) Remove the plastic air filter cover by lifting and snapping it off
> from the inboard side. Remove the air filter box by flipping 4 wire
> buckles, then disconnect a wiring connector by removing the wire
> retainer and pulling the connector off. Loosen the airbox air intake
> hose at the hose clamp, then remove the airbox and filter
> from the car.
>
> 4) Remove the four nuts holding the waste gate to the manifold. Then
> remove the three nuts and bolts aft of the expansion bellows
> pipe, where
> it connects to the exhaust pipe. During reassembly, the gasket at this
> joint will need to be replaced, or if it is not damaged, can
> be reused.
> Remove the air control line to the waste gate (one bolt). Put
> a piece of
> masking tape over the end of the bolt to keep from loosing
> the bolt and
> washer. This will now allow the waste gate assembly to be
> removed. Note
> that there is no gasket where the waste gate detaches from
> the manifold.
> This is a metal to metal fit.
>
> 5) Remove the four nuts where the exhaust pipe connects to the hot
> sections of the turbo. The bottom of these 4 nuts is smaller (15 mm)
> than the other three 17 mm nuts, and is a little difficult to
> remove. It
> is the only one of the four with a washer. Use a 15 mm combination
> wrench at the box end. Heat and bend the wrench about 1.5 in. from the
> box end, with a 15 degree offset to clear the engine mount. Use an
> acetylene torch or Mapp gas torch (Sears), and a vise to heat and bend
> the wrench. A propane torch may not be hot enough. Buy an inexpensive
> forged steel wrench from Checker Auto for this purpose,
> (approximately:
> $3.00). You may need to use a pry bar against the wrench to
> get the nut
> to break loose. Remove the four lines to the turbo, two at the top and
> two at the bottom. You will lose some antifreeze when you loosen the
> bottom lines, if you have not drained the radiator earlier. Tape the
> lower oil line with masking tape to keep debris out of this line while
> you are cleaning the gasket areas. There is a gasket on one
> line at the
> top and one line at the bottom of the turbo, that will need to be
> scraped clean and replaced, during reassembly. Do not use any gasket
> sealer when replacing these lines. One of the bottom lines
> will require
> removal of two bolts, with a 5 mm metric allen wrench.
>
> 6) Remove the four nuts holding the turbo to the manifold.
> The gasket at
> this joint should be replaced when reassembling. Note orientation of
> which side of the gasket is against the turbo.
>
> 7) Jack up the car under the front door at the lift point, on the
> passenger side; go under the car, and disconnect the exhaust
> pipe on the
> passenger side, just forward of the catalytic converter, by removing 3
> nuts and bolts. If these are rusted, you may need to hacksaw
> these bolts
> to remove them, then replace them at your Audi dealer. Do not lose the
> steel ring gasket that will fall out. Lower the jack and jack up the
> driver's side of the car, then loosen the three bolts on the exhaust
> pipe on this side of the car. It is only necessary to loosen these
> bolts.
>
> 8) It is now possible to pull the exhaust pipe back to clear the turbo
> studs. It is helpful to hold the pipe back with a webbing strap and
> buckle. Attach it to the exhaust pipe and to the steering damper rod,
> then pull it tight.
>
> 9) Remove the large air input hose at the forward end of the turbo by
> loosening the hose clamp, and pulling the hose forward. There
> is also a
> small air hose at the forward end of the turbo that will need to be
> removed, by loosening a hose clamp. Disconnect the crankcase breather
> hose at the valve cover, by loosening a clamp and pulling it back.
> Loosen the clamp for the turbo output hose, which is at the front and
> lower part of the turbo. This hose will not disconnect until you lift
> out the turbo assembly.
>
> 10) The turbo assembly can now be removed by first clearing
> the manifold
> studs, pulling it out of the rubber output hose, then by
> lifting it out.
>
> 11) Remove the 16 stud nuts and washers from the manifold with a 12 mm
> deep socket ratchet wrench. Remove the exhaust manifold and gasket.
>
> 12) The RS2 manifold requires that four studs be removed and replaced
> with shorter studs. A diagram supplied with the manifold shows which
> studs are to be removed. Make sure that you remove the correct studs.
> The studs to be removed are: top row, # 6 counting from the front, and
> bottom row, # 4, 5, and 6 counting from the front. These studs can be
> removed with a Sears Craftsman 4458P stud remover. This tool grips the
> stud with a camed serrated wheel, which bites into the stud
> threads. The
> studs are not reusable after removal.
>
> 13) Now install the 4 shorter studs, with the shorter thread length
> going into the cylinder head, and the longer thread outward.
> Use two of
> the 12 mm nuts, jammed together on the stud to drive it into the head,
> with a 12 mm socket. Make sure that it is fully seated
> against the stud
> shoulder, then remove the two jammed nuts.
>
> 14) Place the RS2 manifold over the studs with a new gasket,
> having the
> shiny part of the gasket against the engine head. Now comes the
> difficult part. First put on the three bottom nuts on the short studs.
> Do not reuse the copper washers on these three nuts. If you do, the
> thread locking part of the nut will not have enought engagement on the
> stud, and the nut may later work loose. Now put all of the
> other nuts on
> loosely, all with the copper washers. You will need to
> tighten the three
> bottom short studs first. These three studs will be difficult
> to tighten
> and will require tools to be modified, due to the small
> clearance around
> the nuts. Buy two 12 mm forged steel combination wrenches from Checker
> Auto, or your local auto store, for approximately $3.00 each.
>
> 15) For studs # 4 and 5, use an open end 12 mm combination wrench that
> has had the open end ground down with a bench grinder, to a .855 in.
> outside width, then thickness of the open end ground down to .180 in.,
> and the handle bent at approximately 10 deg. offset, 1.75 in. from the
> end of the open end. The bending can be accomplished again with an
> acetylene torch or a Sears Mapp gas bottle torch, and a vise. You will
> need to custom grind the wrench and try it until it fits over the two
> nuts.
>
> 16) For stud # 6 bottom row, (the most difficult to tighten), you will
> need to grind another 12 mm combination wrench, to remove some of the
> outer metal around the outside of the box end. Grind it down as far as
> you can go without cutting through the box ring,
> (approximately .650 in.
> diameter). Now grind down the thickness of the box ring to about .225
> in.. Put the box end in a vise, heat and bend the handle at 90 deg.,
> about 1.5 in. from the end of the box end. Keep trying the
> wrench on the
> nut by looking through the hole in the manifold casting, and by making
> grinding adjustments as necessary, until it fits over the nut.
>
> 17) First, use the modified open end wrench to tighten # 4, then # 5,
> bottom row. Next tighten # 6, bottom row, by using the modified box
> wrench with a large square shanked screw driver, then twisted
> the wrench
> in the open end, like a t-handle. Tighten the top #6 nut with an open
> end 12 mm wrench, and the remaining nuts with a 12 mm deep socket
> ratchet wrench.
>
> 18) The remainder of the reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly.
> Don't forget to add coolant before starting the engine. Audi
> requires a
> phosphate free, aluminum safe coolant, such as Autobahn sold by Audi,
> ($14.00/gal.), or Prestone Extended Life 5/100, ($7.00/gal.). The new
> manifold may smoke for a while after starting the engine, until the
> machining oils are burned off.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Scott
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: s-car-list-bounces+quattro20v=telus.net at audifans.com
> > [mailto:s-car-list-bounces+quattro20v=telus.net at audifans.com]
> > On Behalf Of Fifield, Douglas
> > Sent: Friday, April 30, 2004 6:15 AM
> > To: 's-car-list at audifans.com'
> > Subject: [s-cars] RS2 EM Swap Special Tools??
> >
> >
> >
> > All,
> >
> > I know I saw it, but I can't find it now. Looking for a
> > detailed description of how to make the special wrench
> > modifications for tomorrow's EM swap attempt. I have a photo
> > of modified wrenches, but someone actually posted dimensions
> > (ex: bend 90 deg. 1.3 inches from box end; grind open end to
> > 0.13 inches thick, etc.). Anyone have that post handy?
> >
> > Douglas in MN, upgrading tomorrow
> > 95.5 //S6Avant - mine
> > 98 Mercury Mountaineer - her work sled
> > 98 Toyota RAV4 - for sale
> > 73 BMW R60/5 - lonely in the garage
> >
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> >
>
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