[s-cars] front axles

[northrup]

Often mechanics will suggest replacing the axles because of the cost.  
You pay a tech for his time and for the parts used.  sometimes it costs 
more to  pay a tech to fix a part than to replace a part.   Depending on 
the car, this is true with repairing CV boots vs replacing axles.

I have no idea what it costs on your car.  I recall working on two hondas: 
replcin the axel on the honda accord was much cheaper than doing the work 
to replace the CV boots. But on the prelude, the axle cost was quite 
expensive, so I replaced the boots.

In an event, investigation of both options and a choice based on cost 
assuming the existing joints are in good condition is advised.

On Tue, 28 Dec 2004, Bob Frizzell wrote:

> Mike,
> I'm not sure why he thinks you should replace the axels.  I did my CV joints
> exactly one year ago today. It is not difficult, just messy. Following is a
> reply from fellow lister, Igor Kessel when I asked about doing mine (Igor, I
> hope you don't mind me forwarding it).
> 
> It is a messy but an easy and quick job. No need to remove the strut or
> the antisway bar. Break loose the big a$$ center bolts while on the
> ground (DO NOT roll the car with the bolt removed!), jack up the front,
> undo the inner CV joint bolts with the 12-point "triple square" bit,
> turn the  wheels to the rightmost position, wiggle about and remove one
> axle, use the bolt for the CV joint removal per Stefan's instructions, (just
> clamp in a vice and screw the bolt in). Repack with grease form the kit,
> replace the boot, reclamp with new
> Oettiker clamps form the kit with the Oettiker clamps KD-424 or the
> like, reinstall the joint into the hub, tighten the 6 small 12-point bolts.
> Turn the wheels to the opposite lock and repeat the procedure for the
> other axle.
> Install the new big a$$ center bolts from the kit and finger tighten
> them. Lower the car onto the ground. Torque them to spec.
> 
> Have a beer.
> 
>