[s-cars] Happersized RSB installation

[Djdawson2 at aol.com]

In a message dated 1/7/04 10:41:40 PM Mountain Standard Time, ray at s-cars.org 
writes:

> I bent and cracked both of mine after a day at the track.  As Brian
> indicated, the factory plates are designed to be used with the 17mm bar,
> which you can nearly bend by hand.  Such is not the case with the HRSB,
> which places a significant amount of leverage on the lightweight factory
> plates.

I broke both of mine, about 3 weeks between failures... no track days, just 
routine driving.  But I have a rough dirt road to my house... and I'm running 
the stiffest setting.


> 
> The factory plates bend at or near where the "key" is tack-welded in place.
> Simply tack welding the key is likely sufficient for normal street use.  For
> track use, however, you need to beef up the factory plates.

Stronger plates are very easy to make if you get some heavier material.  I 
made both of my replacement plates out of the steel used on the early 10v power 
steering brackets.  They've been fine for quite a while now.

> 
> I have not experienced the RR CV boot issue of which Brian complains.  My
> bar is set on the middle setting, and both heim joint ends are threaded out
> about 1".

I had boot failures only when one plate broke, and I didn't notice at first.  
Even moderate cornering will then send the loose end of the bar into the 
boot.  I'm using a center to center length of 5 1/4 inches on my links.  I'd be 
interested to know what others are using.

> 
> Lee, the benefit of installing the HRSB on your avant is that the rear hubs
> are already tapped for the factory plates, so you need not tack weld the key
> in place.  Nonetheless, I would suggest doing so, if only to beef up the
> plates.
> 

Tapping the hubs is also extremely easy.  The mild steel is very easy to 
drill and tap.  It couldn't have added more than 30 minutes to my install.
Dave in CO