Subject: [s-cars] Control arm/Ball joint

[Mike Platt]

Yeah thanks! I'll keep it in mind for the next time.
I find it more fun if you make it as difficult as
possible:)

I forgot to mention. When I seperated the drivers
side, the strut moved outward and the CV joint
seperated inside the rotor. I had to remove the whole
axle assembly and reseat the joint..DOH!

And on the same weekend repair I decided to do a
timing belt/waterpump service. Got it all back
together and the crank seal leaked. Got to do it all
over last week....double DOH!

Third DOH coming. Brake light has come on and I have
random operating power brakes. I've already done a
BOMB and pump over the last year or so. I'm hoping it
goes away like it did last time. Otherwise......?

Mike( who always finds the hard way to work on scars)P

--- Igor Kessel <kbattpo at verizon.net> wrote:
> Mike,
> I have just done this on my car. A few comments
> below.
> 
> 
> Mike Platt wrote:
> 
> > 1) Undo the sway bar mounts under the engine bay.
> This
> > need to be done with the car on its wheels, on
> ramps.
> Didn't have to do those.
> 
> > 2) Remove wheel. Undo the ball joint nut and bolt
> and
> > extract from strut. Lots of PB blaster here. Clean
> up
> > hole and put anti seize in for the next time.
> This was Step #3 for me.
> 
> > 3) Loosen the sway bar nuts and pry the ball joint
> out
> > of strut and take the control arm/swaybar nuts off
> of
> > bar now.
> This was Step #2 for me.
> 
> > 4) Remove large bolt holding control arm to
> subframe.
> > 
> > 5) You will need an extractor to remove the small
> > sleeve inside the bushing before you can take out
> arm.
> > Without this extractor, expect to take a lot of
> time
> > getting that sleeve out.
> The sleeves came out easily with a help of a hook
> and were reused. The 
> key is to do the Steps 2,3 the way I did, AND twist
> the control arm 
> parallel to the ground. This way you relive the
> torsional stress on the 
> big bushing and the sleeve.
> 
> > 6) Remove arm. Clean up sleeve, coat with anti
> seize
> > and reassemble everything.
> > 
> > 7) Install arm, sleeve and bolt. Leave bolt loose.
> > 
> > 8) Pry down on arm and slide ball joint into
> strut.
> > 
> > 9) put new bushings on control arm, sway bar
> mounting
> > point. They're cheap and cause tire wear problem
> when
> > they get old. I lubed them up with silicone grease
> > too.
> Mine came with the new control arms for $89/ea side.
> 
> > 10) Put on inner sway bar mounts. Pry bar needed
> here.
> No need to do these if you follow my sequence.
> 
> > 11) tighten everything back to spec.
> On the ground!!!
> 
> -- 
> Igor Kessel
> two turbo quattros



	
		
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