[s-cars] RS2 EM Swap Special Tools??
Sean Douglas
quattro20v at telus.net
Sat May 1 11:24:19 EDT 2004
Andrew:
It should be much easier, as from what I understand the EM is the
hardest part. I'm doing the manifold and turbo in the next couple of
weeks and I will be able to speak from experience then.
I have made up the tools as per the instructions below, I'll post to the
list how it went.
Sean
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew.Jackson at bmo.com [mailto:Andrew.Jackson at bmo.com]
> Sent: Friday, April 30, 2004 8:10 AM
> To: Sean Douglas
> Cc: 'Fifield, Douglas'; s-car-list at audifans.com;
> s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
> Subject: RE: [s-cars] RS2 EM Swap Special Tools??
>
>
>
> Excellent instructions.
>
> Now what if one already had the RS2 EM and only wanted to
> swap the turbo? How much of this would be overkill?
>
>
> ALJ
>
>
> |---------+------------------------------->
> | | "Sean Douglas" |
> | | <quattro20v at telus.ne|
> | | t> |
> | | Sent by: |
> | | s-car-list-bounces at a|
> | | udifans.com |
> | | |
> | | |
> | | 04/30/2004 10:53 AM |
> | | |
> |---------+------------------------------->
>
> >-------------------------------------------------------------
> -----------------------------------------------------------------|
> |
> |
> | To: "'Fifield, Douglas'"
> <Douglas.Fifield at TENNANTCO.com>, <s-car-list at audifans.com>
> |
> | cc:
> |
> | Subject: RE: [s-cars] RS2 EM Swap Special Tools??
> |
>
> >-------------------------------------------------------------
> -----------------------------------------------------------------|
>
>
>
>
> Here is the message originally posted by Jerry Scott:
>
> Sean Douglas
>
> -----------
>
> Here's a write-up that I did back in 1997 for the RS2
> manifold install in a 93 S4. This might be helpful in your
> attempt, in addition to the one just posted by Bill Mahoney.
>
>
> The replacement of the standard manifold with the RS2
> manifold is a somewhat difficult task, but is reasonably
> capable by anyone who has done mechanical auto work
> previously, and by someone who has a complete set of standard
> metric wrenches, metric sockets, metric allen wrenches, and a
> Mapp gas torch. You will also need a floor jack, a bench
> grinder, and a mechanic's trouble light. If you take your
> time, and are not frustrated by difficult to reach nut and
> bolt locations, you will find it a rewarding challenge. Three
> standard wrenches, (one 15 mm. combination, and two 12 mm.
> combination) will need to be modified by grinding and
> bending, to accomplish the task. The wrenches were about $3.00 each.
>
> 1) Start by jacking up the car on the driver's side, (at the
> lift point under the front door), and remove the plastic
> bottom cover by turning with a screw driver, 8 quarter-turn
> screws. You may alternately want to run the front of the car
> up on ramp stands, instead of using a floor jack.
>
> 2) Drain the radiator of coolant from the plastic valve at
> the bottom of the radiator on the driver's side, into a
> container. This is necessary since you will need to
> disconnect two water lines from the turbo. Alternately, you
> may try to catch the coolant in a bucket under the car, when
> you disconnect the turbo water lines, in a later step. The
> engine should be cool before starting this procedure.
>
> 3) Remove the plastic air filter cover by lifting and
> snapping it off from the inboard side. Remove the air filter
> box by flipping 4 wire buckles, then disconnect a wiring
> connector by removing the wire retainer and pulling the
> connector off. Loosen the airbox air intake hose at the hose
> clamp, then remove the airbox and filter from the car.
>
> 4) Remove the four nuts holding the waste gate to the
> manifold. Then remove the three nuts and bolts aft of the
> expansion bellows pipe, where it connects to the exhaust
> pipe. During reassembly, the gasket at this joint will need
> to be replaced, or if it is not damaged, can be reused.
> Remove the air control line to the waste gate (one bolt). Put
> a piece of masking tape over the end of the bolt to keep from
> loosing the bolt and washer. This will now allow the waste
> gate assembly to be removed. Note that there is no gasket
> where the waste gate detaches from the manifold. This is a
> metal to metal fit.
>
> 5) Remove the four nuts where the exhaust pipe connects to
> the hot sections of the turbo. The bottom of these 4 nuts is
> smaller (15 mm) than the other three 17 mm nuts, and is a
> little difficult to remove. It is the only one of the four
> with a washer. Use a 15 mm combination wrench at the box end.
> Heat and bend the wrench about 1.5 in. from the box end, with
> a 15 degree offset to clear the engine mount. Use an
> acetylene torch or Mapp gas torch (Sears), and a vise to heat
> and bend the wrench. A propane torch may not be hot enough.
> Buy an inexpensive forged steel wrench from Checker Auto for
> this purpose, (approximately: $3.00). You may need to use a
> pry bar against the wrench to get the nut to break loose.
> Remove the four lines to the turbo, two at the top and two at
> the bottom. You will lose some antifreeze when you loosen the
> bottom lines, if you have not drained the radiator earlier.
> Tape the lower oil line with masking tape to keep debris out
> of this line while you are cleaning the gasket areas. There
> is a gasket on one line at the top and one line at the bottom
> of the turbo, that will need to be scraped clean and
> replaced, during reassembly. Do not use any gasket sealer
> when replacing these lines. One of the bottom lines will
> require removal of two bolts, with a 5 mm metric allen wrench.
>
> 6) Remove the four nuts holding the turbo to the manifold.
> The gasket at this joint should be replaced when
> reassembling. Note orientation of which side of the gasket is
> against the turbo.
>
> 7) Jack up the car under the front door at the lift point, on
> the passenger side; go under the car, and disconnect the
> exhaust pipe on the passenger side, just forward of the
> catalytic converter, by removing 3 nuts and bolts. If these
> are rusted, you may need to hacksaw these bolts to remove
> them, then replace them at your Audi dealer. Do not lose the
> steel ring gasket that will fall out. Lower the jack and jack
> up the driver's side of the car, then loosen the three bolts
> on the exhaust pipe on this side of the car. It is only
> necessary to loosen these bolts.
>
> 8) It is now possible to pull the exhaust pipe back to clear
> the turbo studs. It is helpful to hold the pipe back with a
> webbing strap and buckle. Attach it to the exhaust pipe and
> to the steering damper rod, then pull it tight.
>
> 9) Remove the large air input hose at the forward end of the
> turbo by loosening the hose clamp, and pulling the hose
> forward. There is also a small air hose at the forward end of
> the turbo that will need to be removed, by loosening a hose
> clamp. Disconnect the crankcase breather hose at the valve
> cover, by loosening a clamp and pulling it back. Loosen the
> clamp for the turbo output hose, which is at the front and
> lower part of the turbo. This hose will not disconnect until
> you lift out the turbo assembly.
>
> 10) The turbo assembly can now be removed by first clearing
> the manifold studs, pulling it out of the rubber output hose,
> then by lifting it out.
>
> 11) Remove the 16 stud nuts and washers from the manifold
> with a 12 mm deep socket ratchet wrench. Remove the exhaust
> manifold and gasket.
>
> 12) The RS2 manifold requires that four studs be removed and
> replaced with shorter studs. A diagram supplied with the
> manifold shows which studs are to be removed. Make sure that
> you remove the correct studs. The studs to be removed are:
> top row, # 6 counting from the front, and bottom row, # 4, 5,
> and 6 counting from the front. These studs can be removed
> with a Sears Craftsman 4458P stud remover. This tool grips
> the stud with a camed serrated wheel, which bites into the
> stud threads. The studs are not reusable after removal.
>
> 13) Now install the 4 shorter studs, with the shorter thread
> length going into the cylinder head, and the longer thread
> outward. Use two of the 12 mm nuts, jammed together on the
> stud to drive it into the head, with a 12 mm socket. Make
> sure that it is fully seated against the stud shoulder, then
> remove the two jammed nuts.
>
> 14) Place the RS2 manifold over the studs with a new gasket,
> having the shiny part of the gasket against the engine head.
> Now comes the difficult part. First put on the three bottom
> nuts on the short studs. Do not reuse the copper washers on
> these three nuts. If you do, the thread locking part of the
> nut will not have enought engagement on the stud, and the nut
> may later work loose. Now put all of the other nuts on
> loosely, all with the copper washers. You will need to
> tighten the three bottom short studs first. These three studs
> will be difficult to tighten and will require tools to be
> modified, due to the small clearance around the nuts. Buy two
> 12 mm forged steel combination wrenches from Checker Auto, or
> your local auto store, for approximately $3.00 each.
>
> 15) For studs # 4 and 5, use an open end 12 mm combination
> wrench that has had the open end ground down with a bench
> grinder, to a .855 in. outside width, then thickness of the
> open end ground down to .180 in., and the handle bent at
> approximately 10 deg. offset, 1.75 in. from the end of the
> open end. The bending can be accomplished again with an
> acetylene torch or a Sears Mapp gas bottle torch, and a vise.
> You will need to custom grind the wrench and try it until it
> fits over the two nuts.
>
> 16) For stud # 6 bottom row, (the most difficult to tighten),
> you will need to grind another 12 mm combination wrench, to
> remove some of the outer metal around the outside of the box
> end. Grind it down as far as you can go without cutting
> through the box ring, (approximately .650 in. diameter). Now
> grind down the thickness of the box ring to about .225 in..
> Put the box end in a vise, heat and bend the handle at 90
> deg., about 1.5 in. from the end of the box end. Keep trying
> the wrench on the nut by looking through the hole in the
> manifold casting, and by making grinding adjustments as
> necessary, until it fits over the nut.
>
> 17) First, use the modified open end wrench to tighten # 4,
> then # 5, bottom row. Next tighten # 6, bottom row, by using
> the modified box wrench with a large square shanked screw
> driver, then twisted the wrench in the open end, like a
> t-handle. Tighten the top #6 nut with an open end 12 mm
> wrench, and the remaining nuts with a 12 mm deep socket
> ratchet wrench.
>
> 18) The remainder of the reassembly is the reverse of the
> disassembly. Don't forget to add coolant before starting the
> engine. Audi requires a phosphate free, aluminum safe
> coolant, such as Autobahn sold by Audi, ($14.00/gal.), or
> Prestone Extended Life 5/100, ($7.00/gal.). The new manifold
> may smoke for a while after starting the engine, until the
> machining oils are burned off.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Scott
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: s-car-list-bounces+quattro20v=telus.net at audifans.com
> > [mailto:s-car-list-bounces+quattro20v=telus.net at audifans.com]
> > On Behalf Of Fifield, Douglas
> > Sent: Friday, April 30, 2004 6:15 AM
> > To: 's-car-list at audifans.com'
> > Subject: [s-cars] RS2 EM Swap Special Tools??
> >
> >
> >
> > All,
> >
> > I know I saw it, but I can't find it now. Looking for a detailed
> > description of how to make the special wrench modifications for
> > tomorrow's EM swap attempt. I have a photo of modified
> wrenches, but
> > someone actually posted dimensions
> > (ex: bend 90 deg. 1.3 inches from box end; grind open end to 0.13
> > inches thick, etc.). Anyone have that post handy?
> >
> > Douglas in MN, upgrading tomorrow
> > 95.5 //S6Avant - mine
> > 98 Mercury Mountaineer - her work sled
> > 98 Toyota RAV4 - for sale
> > 73 BMW R60/5 - lonely in the garage
> >
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>
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