[s-cars] Still on 4 cylinders, some background.

[chris chambers]

Jim,

Just because you have the same amount of spark on all cylinders
doesn't mean the coil is good. I'm wondering if you have more
than one weak Coil, before you start swapping out lifters I'd suggest
swapping your coil pack.

Or atleast shipping it to somebody who can try it out on their car.

Based on your tests so far 'm inclined to guess failing coils.

HTH
YMMV
Chris

--- AUDIJIM at aol.com wrote:

> Since many of you are saying the same things, I'll let you know what
> I've 
> done so far.
> 
> New #4 coil and boot.
> 5 new spark plugs.
> 2 new POS.
> I have swapped #4 fuel injector with #5, no help.
> I replaced 5 fuel injector inserts.
> I replaced all of the fuel injector O-rings.
> I checked fuel injector signal at connector, good and is the same as
> the 
> other 4 cylinders.
> I checked compression on cold engine, #4 was the best compression of
> the 5 
> cylinders.
> I physically traced the wiring from the ignition and fuel injector to
> the 
> ECU, every thing checked out good.
> I swapped a known good ECU with no help.
> I removed the fuel injector rail and inserted the injectors and
> tested for 
> fuel quantity and spay pattern, all injectors flowed the same w/ good
> pattern.
> I removed the coil packs and boots, inserted spark plugs and grounded
> to 
> engine, all 5 plugs sparked consistently to each other.
> Spark plug condition (color and/or fuel saturation) is consistent
> between the 
> 5 cylinders.
> No codes ever, unless I pull a connector from any of the fuel
> injectors.
> 
> Before I pull the engine, I'm going to try one last thing that two
> people 
> mentioned/suggested, lifters. An oil change with a different
> viscosity may have 
> influenced a bad lifter to get worse, or possibly effected the piston
> rings on 
> #4 cylinder. I'm leaning towards the lifters right now. I come from
> the world 
> of 10 valve turbo, and I can always hear a bad lifter on a 10v. Why
> can I not 
> hear any lifter noise on a 20v? With this being an unknown, I will
> replace the 
> lifters, valve cover gasket and do the whole timing belt water pump
> routine. 
> After that, I have two more options. Replace the engine, and/or
> replace the 
> engine and engine wiring harness. This might also account for why the
> engine 
> feels like it smoothes out over 3000 RPM. Sometimes when it is warm
> and running 
> smooth, if I blip the throttle, it will run rough again and clear up
> right 
> away, but that was before the oil change. Now it runs rough a lot
> longer than it 
> used to.
> 
> Jim
> ///S4cyinder
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