[s-cars] chirping bird in dash

[motogo1]

Here is a procedure that I did. It used to be on the UrS4 site, but isn't
anymore. I've done the S4 and just last week in 20F weather, the 200, which
was a bigger PITA than the the S4. I had to cut the bellows. I don't see how
else you could get at that lower screw. As far as resealing the box, I
didn't do anything, just lowered the box back down.

Gary Martin
94 UrS4
91 200 TQA

Finally replaced my intermittently squealing AC/heater fan this week and
> maybe what I learned will be of help to someone else.
> If you are using the Bentley procedure, there are several things you DO
> NOT have to do.
> You,
> DO NOT have to remove the blower box.
> DO NOT have to remove any interior trim, ie. center console, like I did.
> PITA to get back in, for me at least.
> DO NOT have to remove coolant lines to heater core.
>
> Credit has to be given to a procedure I found on the Q list, modified
> somewhat.
>
> Here we go.
>
> Inside car: Remove one bolt each side, which attaches footwell airflow
> piece to center blower box. Near center console on both sides.
> Outside car. Remove wipers, motor and assembly and 3 covers over A/C and
> blower box and controls.
> Remove vacuum hoses and electrical connections that will get in the way of
> lifting the blower box about 3-4 inches.
> Remove hold down strap on top of blower box.
> Remove large rubber  connector between blower box and evaporator box.(Hose
> clamp on left side, slip over lip on blower box).
>
> Now you have to break the box loose from its seal. Unless you are feeling
> really strong, I think you will need mechanical help.
> There is a boss on the front of the box to attach a puller to. I made a
> puller out of a  2x4 inch piece of metal, bent
> into a hook at one end, and 90degree angle at other end, put two 6"
> threaded rods thru it about an inch apart, attached
> another piece of metal at the other end. Put a peice of 2x4 on the strut
> brace, and used a pry bar to lift up on my hook.
> No problem.
> Remove housing on blower box that  rubber connector was slipped onto. Two
> screws  visible on the top, and
> one on the bottom.  This is a touchy/feely one, but you can get it out,
> and in. (I did). Worst case, it could be broken,
> as Q list proc said, and this part of housing attached here with contact
> cement or something. Here is where the motor will come out.
>
> Almost there. Motor is held in with a snap ring on the right end. Take
> that off and the washer. Lift, pull and maybe a curse
> or two, and you can get the blower out of the box.
>
> Inside the blower box, there are 3 rubber bumpers, which support the
> motor. These need to be lubricated with petroleum jelly(veener schlipper).
> In fact, I'm thinkin these little dry bumpers may have been the cause of
> the squealing.
> Put new motor in. Line up guide lip on end of motor with housing slot and
> make sure bumpers stay in place.
> note: I used a magnetic tool to hold the screw for the bottom of the
> housing, to get it started.
> Don't forget to attach ALL the connections. Not like I did, when I fould
> the wipers wouldn't work. I took a break after that!
> Good luck. HTH......Gary 94UrS4......nice and quiet