[s-cars] I've got money!

[Eric Phillips]

Thanks, Tony.
 I think I've figured it out:
 Step 1: Purchase all the gear required for a bomb replacement,
hydraulic/brake fluid flush and rear rotors/pads, including a bleeder.
E-brake cables RR, or no?
 Step 2: Teach myself how to do the job without damaging the car or killing
myself. My understanding is that anyone with mechanical know-how can do it.
 Step 3: Actually do the hydraulic flush (Pentosin 11s) first, then the
bomb, if necessary. Wait for rears to be closer to pad "doneness."
 Step 4: Do rears, including lines, flush brake fluid. Consider paint
calipers to match fronts, when fronts get done. Hey, this kind of bling is
nearly free - rice, or not? :) And, uh, what color are those calipers from
BIRA?
 OK, now, all this time, I'm actually putting away money for the BIRA System
1 kit. But springing this kind of wow on the WLO is gonna take some
finessing. By the time I'm ready to do fronts, either I've got the money and
the go-ahead, or I don't. If not, I go with Plan A. If I do, BIRA.
 Note: got pad float last night after running through a puddle. But it was
raining damn hard, and the puddle was long.
 Eric

 On 11/3/05, Tony Curran <tony.curran at sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
> Hi Eric,
>
> I recently replaced front pads and discs 16 months ago. Up front used ECS
> slotted rotors with PBR Metalmaster pads. Also stainless steel brake hoses
> from http://www.paragonperformance.com/audibrk.html $79 - had them on 2
> years with no problem.
>
> Rears done just a few weeks ago. Used plain rotors and PBC ceramic pads
> from
> ECS. The ceramic are a bit more dusty than the metalmaster.
>
> Have seen improved braking performance but difficult to sayit was just the
> braking components as I had the car lowered when the front rotors were
> replaced.
>
> If your only replacing rotors and pads it's just a matter of removing two
> screws per caliper (which need to be replaced). You may also want to
> replace
> the rubber boots over the carrier guide pins and re-pack with grease -
> kit,
> inc screws, is available from dealer.
>
> Tony
> 96 S6
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
> [mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com]On Behalf Of Eric Phillips
> Sent: November 3, 2005 5:00 PM
> To: Robert Rossato
> Cc: Tom Mullane; S-CAR-List at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: [s-cars] I've got money!
>
>
> I wish I had the luxury of waiting. I could get away with just a hydraulic
> flush and change the bomb - the pads and rotors still have some life.
> But I don't think that warped rotor is going to last past next summer. And
> it'll drive me way crazy before then.
> I'm not looking for a step change, because the stock system works OK for
> me. Replacing the lines should have been done some time ago - I think the
> ones on there are original. Slotted rotors help prevent pad float after a
> water crossing, but certainly don't do much to shorten stopping distance.
> Better pads will help some - OEM pads suck a$$.
> Eric
> On 11/3/05, Robert Rossato <r0ssat0_987 at att.net> wrote:
> >
> > Personally, if I didn't have the scratch to upgrade to big brakes and I
> > needed to do brakes, I would contact Tim LeClair and get four new
> Zimmerman
> > rotors and pads (I think he supplies Mintex Red box) for approx. $300.
> The
> > biggest problem with the OEM brakes on the NA market S4/6 is the flex in
> the
> > front calipers. IMO, without upgrading the front calipers, slotted
> rotors/ss
> > lines/whatever pads are not going to give you the step change in
> performance
> > that you would want and need on these cars. You will still have shitty
> > brakes. Then save your pennies and upgrade to big blacks/reds down the
> road.
> >
> > bob
> >
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