[s-cars] I've got money!

[Tony Curran]

Eric,

Another point. If your brake light is staying on 20-30 seconds or so after
turning on, it may not be the bomb. The brake servo (or booster) could also
be the culprit. I've replaced bomb and still have light on. Have just got
servo, and master cylinder, and will be going in soon.

Tony
96 S6
  -----Original Message-----
  From: Eric Phillips [mailto:gcmschemist at gmail.com]
  Sent: November 4, 2005 12:17 PM
  To: Tony Curran
  Cc: S-CAR-List at audifans.com
  Subject: Re: [s-cars] I've got money!


  Thanks, Tony.

  I think I've figured it out:

  Step 1:  Purchase all the gear required for a bomb replacement,
hydraulic/brake fluid flush and rear rotors/pads, including a bleeder.
E-brake cables RR, or no?

  Step 2:  Teach myself how to do the job without damaging the car or
killing myself.  My understanding is that anyone with mechanical know-how
can do it.

  Step 3:  Actually do the hydraulic flush (Pentosin 11s) first, then the
bomb, if necessary.  Wait for rears to be closer to pad "doneness."

  Step 4:  Do rears, including lines, flush brake fluid.  Consider paint
calipers to match fronts, when fronts get done.  Hey, this kind of bling is
nearly free - rice, or not?  :)  And, uh, what color are those calipers from
BIRA?

  OK, now, all this time, I'm actually putting away money for the BIRA
System 1 kit.  But springing this kind of wow on the WLO is gonna take some
finessing.  By the time I'm ready to do fronts, either I've got the money
and the go-ahead, or I don't.  If not, I go with Plan A.  If I do, BIRA.

  Note:  got pad float last night after running through a puddle.  But it
was raining damn hard, and the puddle was long.

  Eric


  On 11/3/05, Tony Curran <tony.curran at sympatico.ca> wrote:
    Hi Eric,

    I recently replaced front pads and discs 16 months ago. Up front used
ECS
    slotted rotors with PBR Metalmaster pads. Also stainless steel brake
hoses
    from http://www.paragonperformance.com/audibrk.html $79 - had them on 2
    years with no problem.

    Rears done just a few weeks ago. Used plain rotors and PBC ceramic pads
from
    ECS. The ceramic are a bit more dusty than the metalmaster.

    Have seen improved braking performance but difficult to sayit was just
the
    braking components  as I had the car lowered when the front rotors were
    replaced.

    If your only replacing rotors and pads it's just a matter of removing
two
    screws per caliper (which need to be replaced). You may also want to
replace
    the rubber boots over the carrier guide pins and re-pack with grease -
kit,
    inc screws, is available from dealer.

    Tony
    96 S6

    -----Original Message-----
    From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
    [mailto: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com]On Behalf Of Eric Phillips
    Sent: November 3, 2005 5:00 PM
    To: Robert Rossato
    Cc: Tom Mullane; S-CAR-List at audifans.com
    Subject: Re: [s-cars] I've got money!


    I wish I had the luxury of waiting. I could get away with just a
hydraulic
    flush and change the bomb - the pads and rotors still have some life.
    But I don't think that warped rotor is going to last past next summer.
And
    it'll drive me way crazy before then.
    I'm not looking for a step change, because the stock system works OK for
    me. Replacing the lines should have been done some time ago - I think
the
    ones on there are original. Slotted rotors help prevent pad float after
a
    water crossing, but certainly don't do much to shorten stopping
distance.
    Better pads will help some - OEM pads suck a$$.
    Eric
    On 11/3/05, Robert Rossato <r0ssat0_987 at att.net > wrote:
    >
    > Personally, if I didn't have the scratch to upgrade to big brakes and
I
    > needed to do brakes, I would contact Tim LeClair and get four new
    Zimmerman
    > rotors and pads (I think he supplies Mintex Red box) for approx. $300.
The
    > biggest problem with the OEM brakes on the NA market S4/6 is the flex
in
    the
    > front calipers. IMO, without upgrading the front calipers, slotted
    rotors/ss
    > lines/whatever pads are not going to give you the step change in
    performance
    > that you would want and need on these cars. You will still have shitty
    > brakes. Then save your pennies and upgrade to big blacks/reds down the
    road.
    >
    > bob
    >
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