[s-cars] Clutch Pedal Broken - R&R Procedure Needed for 92S4

[brian hoeft]

sorry to hear that mike, i've BTDT in the past week or so. it turned out to
be a lot less difficult than i anticipated, the most time consuming being
bleeding the system at the end.
 start by following the directions on removing the trim pieces stated in the
PDF i see youve already been linked to. do all the pre-draining and other
small tasks that i'll take for granted that you will do anyways.
 then remove another, theres a cardboard partition that i think had 3
mounting nuts, get that out of the way. brake pedal stays right where it is.
 master cylinder comes off easily,, a lot easier if you have a ratcheting
wrench unlike myself for the hard line.. i replaced with a new MC also.
 the pedal assembly comes off pretty easily once you remove the clips at the
end of the posts where it hinges and springs. theres another clip like the
one i mentioned (only smaller) for the over center spring,, i used a small
right angle flathead screwdriver to remove the clips easier.
 you want to be careful when sliding the spring off of its perch because it
is loaded and the plastic is fragile.
 kind of self explanatory once you see what youre dealing with, so i may
have forgotten a hint or 3..
 there are plastic surrounds where the pedal hinges that i removed and
swapped from one assembly to another.. not the best solution, -or necessary-
if you buy a new assembly..
 i pulled my assembly off my parts car and did something strange... i kind
of painted the area that is stressed with JBweld... the assembly i used was
from a '93 with 100k miles so maybe i'll get another few pumps than i would
have otherwise, but at least i feel like i did something to make it better..
you'll know the area im speaking of,, its what is still attached to your MC.
 re-assembly is a bit tricky depending on course of action. i chose to but
the assembly in with the MC already attached as it remains, but i was very
gentle with my contorting.
 i also chose to use the zip tie method suggested by tom mullane and others
for compressing the over center spring,, with stern warning against this
method by NEA i risked my flanges, and came away fine.. it should be noted
though that i did use the zip ties that have the metal tabs in the
zip-locker.
 while in the vice, i used two zip ties on opposite sides of each other to
hold the spring compressed uniformly. again, be gentle on the plastic.. if
youre as good as me :)) youll be able to compress the spring,zip tie it, and
then slide the plastics back in. the bitch part of this was removing the zip
ties,, once clipped, i worked the pedal as i pulled on them with needlenose
pliers.
 i also greased everything liberally in hopes of smooth quiet operation.
smooth&quiet indeed.
 feels just as it did before it snapped,, hope thats a good thing..
 my JB picasso pedal might be unorthodox, but at least theres more
surrounding the fracture area, id also suggest -once back on the main hinge-
working the pedal as you manipulate the spring back into place trying not to
stress thezip ties, if you choose that method..
 then bleed the system, i had access to a power bleeder and it still took a
while, dont 'up' the pedal once the hard line is attached and bleeder is
open or it will certainly take longer.
 the whole process once at my car with necessary supplies only took 2 hours,
so i was quite satisfied once i drove away.. hope the same for you.
 like i said, i may have forgotten a hint or 3, so if you get into trouble
dont hesitate to inquire further, everyone has been quite helpful to me, so
id be happy to pay it forward.
 good luck, -brian

 On 10/8/05, Mike Bishoff <mdbishoff at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Guys - Things have been going pretty well over the summer for the
> '92S4,
> but last week I pushed the clutch in and it stayed on the floor.
>
>
>
> As it turns out, the clutch pedal itself is broken where it attaches to
> the
> clutch master cylinder push rod. To clarify, there is a piece of the
> clutch
> pedal dangling from the end of the master cylinder push rod.
>
>
>
> I started to take a look at how the pedal can be replaced, but the best I
> can tell the whole pedal assembly including the brake pedal needs to be
> extracted. I'm hoping that I'm wrong and there's some clever way to remove
> the clutch pedal from the end of it's pivot shaft without removing
> everything else?
>
>
>
> Does anyone else have experience replacing a clutch pedal?
>
>
>
> Mike - Seattle, WA
>
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