[s-cars] Central locking/alarm, stumble at non -WOT and NAC crazyness

Tue Apr 18 19:02:21 EDT 2006

Hi all,

Regarding my priorities, the last part of this post is the most important to
me, then the first, the second is just for fun.

First, I posted a question (now at the end of this post) on a central
locking/alarm problem I've never seen in the archive. It was posted just
before the eastern week-end and I suppose that's why I got no answers. Or it
may be above your common wisdom (No, it can't be, I can't believe that).
Anyway, I've gone through the WD on Bentley with no result. This is really
puzzling me and, as you can see if you read it, it's really a challenge to
those electronically inclined. Anyway, it seems to be way above my personal
knowledge. BTW, another information to add to what I already posted: it
appears that the car sometime unlock during the night. As I'm now living in
the suburb of Quebec, I don't consider it as a main problem but I will move
to Montreal and it may be more of a problem there.

Second, I have a stumble at low rpm. It may be very common but I'm not used
with above 150Kmiles engines with so-so compression (Until now, everything
with a 10psi variation between cylinder was only good for a junk-yard, but I
have to live with much more, as you will see, for at least another year).

The stumble is most noticeable at idle when the engine is warm, disappear
when over 3Krpm and barely noticeable when cold. Due to overheating (don't
ask why, please!) on winter 2004, the compression is something like
150-150-130-150-110, not very good I have to admit (it was 152-155 on all 5
cylinder one year before, duh!).

I know the compression does not help but at 180Kmiles with a rusting body,
there's no way I'll rebuild the engine. A lower mileage S6 (or maybe an A8
if I find if a 5speed conversion is feasible) is in closer range. Anyway, in
the meantime, I'd like your common wisdom to find if there is other possible
culprit beside the compression (or any way to make it less noticeable beside
the extreme way of metal loaded additive which will restore the compression
but destroy the engine pretty fast, AFAIK)

The history of the car, to make a long story short is, engine-wise:
- The car is a 96 with 180Kmiles
- The 5 coils and boots are 3 years old due to a propeller shaft problem
(once more, please, don't ask)
- One POS is 2 years old, the other one is original but I have already
swapped all the channels with no results
- Three sets of spark plugs have been swapped (Original F5DPOR with at least
80Kmiles, another new set with now 10Kmiles, and a set of new F6DTC with now
5Kmiles).
- Fuel filter is 2 years/10Kmiles old
- Everything except the fuel filter is, AFAIK, 10 years/180Kmiles old.
I know injectors this old may be a problem. I've already ordered injectors
seals and I have a set of spare injectors (I'm a bit paranoiac regarding my
car, based on experience, so whenever I find a good deal on parts I buy
them... in case). But I have no experience dealing with injectors and no
mechanic I really trust in the area. So I'd rather not touch it if it has
nothing to do with low rpm stumble.

Any idea? Should I really test the injectors' capacity and spray pattern.
I'm a bit afraid of it as the last two interventions (except oil change) on
my car has been quite disastrous (The past twenty went very well but it
seems there is a dark cloud over my head since last spring).

Third and now just for fun, I went through this news about
helicopter-jet-engine diesel-powered bike: 350hp for 480lb. The most
powerful bike, according to Guinness, the most expensive too:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_coll_leno/1302876.html
The guy also fit them into trucks but forget about mileage: usually below
5mpg. Now, with the size of these engines, there's no reason we couldn't fit
two of them in an S6 engine bay. I now, it's purely crazy but I've once
heard a turbine-powered car and, just for the sound of it, if I was in this
"more money than brain club" I would try it.

Vincent

P.S. 1: The post below about central locking/alarm is the main reason I'm
posting again. Please, don't forget it.

P.S. 2: One good news, one bad. F5DPOR at 80Kmiles give the same result than
new F5DPOR which, considering the price of F5DPOR, is a good news. The bad
news is the F6DTC, reported on this list or AW (I don't remember which) to
perform well on AAN, will work (no miss at WOT) but make the
ignition/combustion problems worst.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
[mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com] De la part de Vincent Frégeac
Envoyé : 13 avril 2006 12:07
À : s-car-list at audifans.com
Objet : [s-cars] Help for central locking and alarm

Hi all,

I’m asking for your wisdom once more. I decided to track all gremlins from
the winter and I do confirm, frozen water (snow, ice, whatever) works also
very well for multiplying gremlins.

So today is central locking and alarm.

What works:

-          The driver door manual switch closes and opens all doors and
trunk

-          The turn signals blink once for close and twice for open when I
use the remote

And that’s it.

What should work but doesn’t:

-          The only purpose of the remote is now to make the turn signals
blink. It’s very nice by night but

-          When I close the driver or passenger door with the key, it closes
the door
 but only this one.

-          When I turn the key twice to open the driver or passenger door

it opens the driver or passenger door.

-          When I close all doors with the central locking switch then the
driver door with the key, the alarm doesn’t switch on.

What I’ve done

-          Replace the RF remote receiver (no change)

-          Check the fuse

-          Check the signal coming from all switches (doors, trunk and hood)

-          Check the signal coming from the RF remote receiver

-          Replace the central locking pump/alarm/blablablabla central unit
(no change)

The only thing I’ve not checked yet (it’s raining now so I prefer writing
emails than working in the parking lot) is the door lock switches but both
the passenger and driver doors do not activate the central locking and
alarm, and I don’t see how both switches could have failed at the same time.
I’ve also noticed that, if I connect the central locking unit (all three
plugs) then I connect the battery, the vacuum pump does not work anymore. It
happens on both units. I have to connect another battery on the car, connect
the purple plug, then the other plugs, install everything with the foam,
install the car’s battery then disconnect the other battery. This means that
disconnecting the battery for another job will deactivate the vacuum pump.
This was not the case when I replaced the battery six month ago.

Last point, all this started when I washed the car with pressurized water
two or three month ago.

Any hints or BTDT? Is there a learning process for this central
locking/alarm unit like the door one-touch-up or the RF receiver?

Vincent.

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