[s-cars] Replacing a CV joint

Thu Aug 3 14:51:17 EDT 2006

Good points Sean.  I wanted to mention the tightening torques but then I forgot.  I never tried the bolt trick to push off the CV joint because I was used to working on VW CV joints that use a nut on an integral stud instead of a bolt into a threaded hole.  I'll keep it mind the next time I have to do that, which hopefully won't be for a while.

Bob

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Sean Douglas" <quattro20v at telus.net>
> Good write-up Bob, a few other tips for Chuck:
> 
> 1. when tightening/loosening the large axle bolt, make sure the car is
> on the ground and use a large breaker bar, with a cheater pipe. A 3/4
> drive 27 mm socket work well here. The tightening torque is 148 ft-lbs
> plus a 1/4 turn.
> 
> 2. Another way to get the outer CV joint off is to use an old axle bolt
> and thread it all the way in the end, when it bottoms out, keep turning
> and the joint will pop off. This is for the front outer only, the rear
> outer has a hidden circlip that must be removed before.
> 
> 3. The original inner CV bolts are 10 mm XZN (triple square), but some
> of the replacement one can be 12 mm. Tighten these to 59 ft-lbs.
> 
> 4. Pay attention to the orientation and locations of the circlip, dished
> washer and thrust washer. Put the new ones on and drive the joint back
> on with a soft, deadblow mallet.
> 
> Sean D.
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com 
> > [mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of Robert Rossato
> > Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 9:46 AM
> > To: Charles Rose; s-car-list at audifans.com
> > Subject: Re: [s-cars] Replacing a CV joint
> > 
> > 
> > Which CV joint?  Inner, or outer?
> > 
> > In either case it starts with removing the axle from the car. 
> >  You'll need a 27mm socket to loosen the axle nut holding the 
> > outer joint to the hub.  The inner CV joint is held to the 
> > transmission flange via 6 triple square bolts.  The size bit 
> > you need for those is a 10mm triple sq.  Do not attempt to 
> > loosen these bolts unless you fully seat the driver into the 
> > bolt head.  They're easy to strip if you're not careful.  
> > This is really more of a problem with the smaller 8mm triple 
> > squares but it doesn't hurt to be careful with the 10's as well.
> > 
> > Clean out the bolt head with a paper clip to dislodge and 
> > dirt that's in there and give the bolt head a quick spray of 
> > brake clean or similar to blow everything out.  Use and 
> > extension on the end of the triple square driver and lightly 
> > tap it in to the bolt head with a hammer to fully engage it.  
> > Then put your ratchet on to loosen it.  Always keep pressure 
> > on the driver as you don't want it to back out or you'll 
> > strip the head.  
> > 
> > You'll either want to have somebody stepping on the brakes as 
> > you loosen the bolts, or if you're alone, install a couple of 
> > lug bolts in the flange (I'm assuming you've taken the wheel 
> > off) and use a long bar between the lug bolts with the end 
> > resting on the floor.  This will lock the axle from turning.  
> > You'll figure it out.
> > 
> > Before you remove the inner CV joint from the flange clean 
> > off the area of as much grime and dirt as possible.  Spray it 
> > all down with Simple Green and wipe it clean.  You want to 
> > avoid getting any dirt in the CV joint.  Have a bag ready to 
> > cover the end of the joint when you pop it off the flange.  
> > Cleanliness is key with CV joints.  Though if this is the one 
> > you need to replace then you won't have to worry about 
> > cleaning things off until you go to reinstall.
> > 
> > Once you remove the inner CV joint from the flange then you 
> > can pop out the outer CV from the hub.  You'll have to turn 
> > the wheel all the way to one side to give you additional room.
> > 
> > Now that the axle is out place it in a vise.  Cut the clamps 
> > off for which ever CV you're replacing.  The outer one I've 
> > always knocked off by hitting it with a rubber or rawhide 
> > mallet on the inside face.  The inner one requires that you 
> > remove a circlip at the end of the shaft before you can 
> > remove it.  May have to press down on the CV slightly to 
> > allow you to remove the circlip.
> > 
> > Installation is reverse of removal.  The new outer joints 
> > will probably come with a new axle bolt, though it will most 
> > likely need a 17mm hex driver to install it instead of the 
> > 27mm socket needed for the original.  The inner CV will also 
> > come with new bolts, though again, they may be a hex drive.
> > 
> > Bob
> > 
> >  -------------- Original message ----------------------
> > From: "Charles Rose" <everett2487 at adelphia.net>
> > > Hey guys,
> > > 
> > > I noticed my boot was ripped about a week ago and the cv 
> > joint started 
> > > making a knocking sound before I received the replacement boot I 
> > > bought so it looks like I will be replacing the entire joint.  I 
> > > should be receiving it today and I was wondering if someone 
> > could give 
> > > me an outline of the steps to replace the cv joint.  I have 
> > never done 
> > > a cv job before and I don't have a service manual, I know, 
> > I know I'm 
> > > going to get one soon.  Any help is greatly appreciated as I am 
> > > driving to school in about a week, Maine to Virginia, and 
> > need to get 
> > > this taken care of immediately.
> > > 
> > > Thanks,
> > > 
> > > Chuck
> > > 
> > > 1993 S4
> > > 
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > S-CAR-List mailing list
> > > S-CAR-List at audifans.com 
> > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > S-CAR-List mailing list
> > S-CAR-List at audifans.com 
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-> car-list
> > 
> 