[s-cars] POS swap - wiring Q

[Douglas Fifield]

Just a caution, be careful.

I was buggered the locking tab on one of my pins while doing this.
Little ***** would not come out no matter what I did to unlock it.
When it finally came free, the locking tab was bent back on itself.
In straightening it out, it broke.  Seems that I recall two tabs per
pin, but I was hallucinating at that point.

It still works, but it is a constant bother to me mentally.  Someone a
while back posted part numbers for a Volvo pin block and separate pins
that matches up to the POS socket.  I would love to hear how that swap
worked - particularly the crimping of the new pins to the existing
wire.  Anyone out there?

D.

On 8/23/06, Robert Rossato <bob.rossato_af at cox.net> wrote:
> Not sure how far you've gotten already, but we'll start from the top.
> You'll need at the minimum some sturdy jeweler's screwdrivers.  There
> are special pin removal tools but you can do without.  Just a little
> more tedious.
>
> The connector housings are in two parts.  After pulling back the boot,
> reach in one side of the back of the connector and release the clip that
> retains the inner pink sleeve.  Pull out the sleeve and there is a flap
> on one side that you lift up.  The connectors themselves have a locking
> tab that prevents the connector from being pulled back.  From the front
> of the sleeve reach in with an appropriately sized jeweler's screwdriver
> and push down on the tab to release the pin.  May have to monkey around
> with it while simultaneously pulling on the wire from the back.  There's
> an obvious opening on one side of the pin for inserting the screwdriver,
> and fortunately these pins only have one locking tab.  Some of them have
> two, top and bottom, requiring finagling with two screwdrivers (this is
> where the specialized tooling gets more handy) while trying to pull on
> the wire with your third hand.  Fun.
>
> Once you have the wires out, swap them out accordingly.  You'll likely
> have to pull up on the tab slightly so that it locks again when you put
> into the new location, though that flap on the pink housing is a
> secondary retention for the pins and you shouldn't have a problem.
>
> Don't forget that you'll have to change the wire locations on both ends
> of the POS.
>
> Bob
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
> > [mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of urs6 at wi.rr.com
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 11:32 PM
> > To: s-car-list at audifans.com
> > Subject: [s-cars] POS swap - wiring Q
> >
> >
> > Shortly after starting out on trip to the in-laws house this weekend,
> > my S6 began to shudder and lose power at all speeds.  The sensation
> > was akin to driving on rough pavement and was accompanied by
> > bad smell
> > from the exhaust so I figured I either lost a coil or POS. After
> > sequentially pulling the power to each injector, I was able
> > to isolate
> > the miss to cylinder #5. When I swapped the two POS, the miss
> > moved to
> > cylinder #2. Time to tap into that extra channel on the
> > passenger-side
> > POS!
> >
> > Although I was able to dismantle the POS connectors to access the
> > wiring for the bad channel, I cannot get those damn wires out.  Is
> > there a keymaster out there that can share the code to this puzzle
> > before I ruin the connector and/or wiring?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Matt
> > _______________________________________________
> > S-CAR-List mailing list
> > S-CAR-List at audifans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list
> >
>
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-- 
Douglas in MN
95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank