[s-cars] HID headlight install finished...sort of

[Tom Green]

Good suggestions, Mike.  There probably have not been too many of the
H1 conversions since the majority are correcting the ills of 10 year  
old US
headlights.  I had removed mine to start the conversion since I  
needed to
clean them up and replace the glass cover anyway.
This problem of lost parts is from the man giving away headlight parts ?
I owe you any help I can provide, but I have no adjuster wheels at  
present.
I had one missing on the Avant I bought in Sept, but found the wheel  
below
the assembly when I took it out and just epoxied it back on the shaft  
with some
on the shaft to eliminate the play.
Your reference to "seat of the pants" aiming is how most are done  
anyway ( if
aimed at all).  Look at the Hella web site for details.  I think you  
can just use a
thick paste epoxy to keep the shaft from moving.
You will spot a loose adjuster on another vehicle coming toward you  
and know
you don't want your lights looking like that. :-)

Tom '95 S6
          '95 S6 Avant







Original message:

> Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 14:24:13 -0500
> From: Michael Bess <mlbess at optonline.net>
> Subject: [s-cars] HID headlight install finished...sort of
> To: s-car-list at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <003601c629c0$95148f10$6401a8c0 at MMT1>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Well the bargain GP HID conversion is now in my '95 S6 with the Euro
> headlight (H1) set-up.  Some comments for those of you still  
> waiting to do
> this.
>
>
>
> 1.	I followed Lino Valadas' basic procedure (ballast external,
> stabilizer epoxied to the inside of the headlamp cover).
> 2.	I needed to cut off the +12V connector to put on one that mated  
> with
> the existing H1 headlight connector.  No big deal, but realize that  
> the ones
> that are supplied are larger than the H1 bulb connector itself.
> 3.	I needed to pick up a ground inside the headlamp shell since the
> existing H1 set-up has a crimped wire ground connector on the bulb  
> socket
> which leads to the receptacle for the plug on the wiring harness.   
> An 18
> gauge tap splice allows for this to be done painlessly (available  
> at Home
> Depot, as is the +12V connector; these are Buchanan insulated male and
> female connectors).
> 4.	The H1 HID conversion capsule is pretty tall and required me to  
> pull
> the driver's side headlight assembly out to get the HID capsule  
> in.  The
> passenger side had enough room behind it to not require removing the
> assembly.
> 5.	The driver's side ballast mounts "neatly" with the double sided  
> tape
> to the windshield washer reservoir.  The passenger side was  
> problematic for
> me.  I simply used a cable tie through the hole in the cross member  
> near the
> air intake and hood release to hold it in place next to the headlamp
> assembly.  Any other ideas?
> 6.	The wiring and stabilizer fit inside the assembly nicely and the
> system fired up perfectly.
>
>
>
> Now, the rub.  When I pulled the headlight assembly out I noticed  
> that the
> plastic bevel gear connected to the "left-right"  adjuster  (as  
> opposed to
> the "up-down" adjuster) was non-existent and the shaft going into the
> assembly was flopping around.    That in turn allows the reflector  
> to float
> around.  This problem was also noted on the passenger side assembly  
> also.
> The questions:  a.  any BTDT on this problem, b.  how big a problem  
> is this,
> c.  can the bevel gear be found somewhere (or pulled off a scrap  
> headlight
> assembly and re-installed).  No need to blind oncoming drivers due  
> to badly
> aimed headlights.  I suppose I could do a seat of the pants aim and
> tape/glue the adjusting shaft in place to hold things together.
>
>
>
> lMike  Bess