[s-cars] 1.8 bar wastegate spring install and impressions

[Mark Strangways]

A stiffer spring will help avoid wastegate creep.
Cranking down on the spring perch has the same effect to some extent.
I have a TAP spring in mine and I can crank it down a change how the turbo 
spools.

Mark
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "chris chambers" <fastscirocco_2000 at yahoo.com>
To: "Sean Douglas" <quattro20v at telus.net>; "'S-Cars list'" 
<S-CAR-List at audifans.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 6:42 PM
Subject: Re: [s-cars] 1.8 bar wastegate spring install and impressions


> Gents, Sean;
>
> OK, I'm confused as to what this does.
>
> I have mine setup to "RS2" specs and wish my turbo spooled
> up quicker than it does.
>
> Would making this mod allow my turbo to spool up quicker?
>
>
> Thanks
> Chris
>
>
> --- Sean Douglas <quattro20v at telus.net> wrote:
>
>> Just finished installing the 1.8 bar wastegate spring. I did the
>> diaphragm at the same time, but it's a bit more involved to do.
>>
>> If you are going to do the diaphragm, its much easier to remove the
>> wastegate and disassemble it on the bench. If not, the spring can be
>> easily replaced while the WG is in place.
>>
>> Wastegate Removal:
>>
>> 1. remove the 3 bolts and nuts where the flex connection attaches to
>> the
>> downpipe
>> 2. remove the large banjo bolt where the vacuum line attached
>> 3. remove the 4 nuts holding the wastegate to the manifold
>> 4. remove wastegate with flex pipe attached and take to bench and
>> hold
>> in vice
>> 5. you may need a new downpipe gasket if its original, mine is about
>> 2
>> years old so I didn't bother. Also if the bolts have never been
>> apart,
>> it's a good idea to use Rost-off (or the like) and have some new
>> hardware on hand. The copper nuts are easy to round off.
>>
>> Cap Removal:
>>
>> 1. remove the six little nuts
>> 2. my wastegate cap was stuck on pretty good, I had to wedge a small
>> flat blade screwdriver between the diaphragm and the cap and lightly
>> tap
>> it with a hammer.
>> 3. remove cap
>> 4. remove spring
>>
>> Diaphragm Replacement:
>>
>> 1. use a allen key wrench on the underside of the piston to prevent
>> the
>> piston from turning and remove nut
>> 2. remove washer
>> 3. pull out piston with diaphragm attached
>> 4. remove large black backing plate (I had to wedge a small
>> screwdriver
>> in and tap with a hammer)
>> 5. install in reverse and use blue loc-tite on the nut.
>>
>> Driving Impressions:
>>
>> Boost comes on much quicker and at less throttle opening. At half
>> throttle, boost builds much more quicker - not sure if I like this,
>> makes it hard to modulate, kinda reminds me of MTM 1+.
>>
>> It "feels" faster because boost builds faster - not sure if ultimate
>> power is increased.
>>
>> Now for the downside - maximum boost is increased, I'm seeing 1.9 bar
>> on
>> my Greddy electronic gauge with peak memory, with the stock spring I
>> saw
>> 1.6 bar max. This is with Dahlback software. At 1.9 bar boost it
>> pings
>> pretty bad and I don't think this high level of boost can be good.
>>
>> I've replaced the stock spring until for now - unless someone has any
>> suggestions.
>>
>> Sean D.
>>
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>
>
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>
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