[s-cars] Radiator questions

[calvinlc at earthlink.net]

If I counted right it looks like the new one, one on the right, has about
33% fewer passes through the radiator.
--Calvin


-----Original Message-----
From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
[mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Day
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 10:59 AM
To: brian bilotti
Cc: s-car-list at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Radiator questions


Here are pictures of the new and old radiators, for comparison:

http://www.boost-instruments.com/fmic/Radiators.jpg
http://www.boost-instruments.com/fmic/Radiators2.jpg

I bought a lower temperature radiator fan switch (the one that screws
into the radiator) but I have not installed it yet.  I believe it is
intended to go with the 80C thermostat.

I ran the car with the new radiator at Lime Rock a few weeks back, and
although the car ran hot (as always) the coolant temperature was lower
than it is when driving in city traffic in the summer (95-100C, below
the standard radiator fan switch threshold of 102C).  Oil temperature
was considerably higher though (>130C).  I plan on doing an oil cooler
upgrade at some point.

-Kevin

On Mon, Jul 03, 2006 at 08:35:26PM -0700, brian bilotti wrote:
> Hey Kevin,
>
> One of the reasons this motor (I'm told) went bad is
> because it wasn't getting cooled enough. It was
> explained to me that 1. our cars weren't designed for
> an FMIC and 2. the stock rad is made for a turbo car.
>
> So at a minimum, maximum cooling is paramount...
>
> It was also explained that that "hot spots" can
> develop in the block. Possibly one of the reasons my
> rings and cylinder walls have issues, hence the need
> for a new motor. Oh BTW, this motor only has 8k on it
> :-(
>
> That said, I have an FMIC too and I just don't want
> the same crap to happen again.
>
> I welcome anymore comments refuting or confirming this
> swell news....
>
> Thanks
> brian
>
> --- Kevin Day <kday at ultrameta.org> wrote:
>
> > Brian,
> >
> > I recently replaced my original radiator with an AKG
> > part.  The fin
> > design is indeed different, and it does look like
> > the original rad. was
> > bar and plate and the new one is tube and fin.  Mine
> > cost around $160
> > also.
> >
> > The end tanks on the new radiator look identical to
> > the old ones.
> > It seems to work fine, maybe slightly higher temps,
> > but it's hard to say
> > since I put an FMIC in front of it when I installed
> > it.
> >
> > No regrets though.  Even if it is slighly inferior
> > (which I don't know
> > one way or the other), I'll take a new radiator over
> > a 12 year old
> > radiator any day.
> >
> > -Kevin
> >
> > On Mon, Jul 03, 2006 at 12:37:32PM -0700, brian
> > bilotti wrote:
> > > S-Heads,
> > >
> > > I'm dropping in a new motor. I got a new radiator
> > from
> > > World Pac on the last motor build(don't ask). It
> > was
> > > $160. The dealer charges $360+, the part #'s at
> > world
> > > pac are the same.
> > >
> > > It has been suggested that I got a fin and tube
> > > radiator and not a bar and plate. Is this BS or
> > > possibly correct.
> > >
> > > I don't want to make the same mistake.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > bb
> > >
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>
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