[s-cars] Brake Light and Thrumming Pedal

Wed Jul 5 12:57:50 EDT 2006

Brian,

The Bentley has the spec for the clevis.  From memory, I think it is 230 mm.

D.

On 7/5/06, brian hoeft <qweblog at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> alright doug, youre moving forward, good stuff.
>
> i kept the duct in place, but i did remove the strut brace and encountered
> no problems putting it back on, i also re-tightened after the first drive.
> as for that partition, i think there were 2 fasteners (bolts,or nuts, i
> forget) as well as being sort of clipped with ridges attaced to the
> fuse/relay area..  very fragile cardboard..
>
> keep in mind, i replaced my MC at the same time, so i had more room to get
> around the lines.. i think i just held them gently to the side during
> removal/replacement. i think the same should work for you,, if you have to
> touch them, so be it, just remember theyre not too tough.
>
>
> that pushrod is only a few (3?) inches into the MC, but once you have
> everything freed, it should be fine.
>
> also, keep in mind what fred pointed out earlier,, attach as you go.  the
> extentions through the hole in the pedal bracket that is.  you can hold
> them(extentions) on the other side near where the clutch pedal hinges as you
> go.
>
> also, that clevis pin..  i wont be able to get the specs to you for a few
> more hours, so hopefully someone else can chime in.. i think it was
> something like 205.5mm with only 1mm leeway.  DONT quote me on that spec,
> but i remember a 6" dial caliper not being long enough. 12" is great... but
> even though mine was in spec, i had to open up my car again days later and
> re adjust because my brake lights came on with my car sitting in my
> driveway, if i thouched the car  theyd go off/on so another 1/2 turn or so
> and perfecto..
>
> good luck for now, ill email those clevis pin details later if not done
> already..
>
>
> //brian
>
>
> On 7/5/06, Douglas Fifield <douglas.fifield at gmail.com> wrote:
> > All,
> >
> > Am underway on the project.  Got airduct out of the way.  Moved foam
> > aside.  See three nuts but fourth is hidden.  There is a fiberboard
> > sheild that may have to come out but I dont know on that yet.
> >
> > On the other side of the firewall, the two hard lines are disconnected
> > from the servo, capped and wrapped in plastic.  The screws holding the
> > master cylinder and resevoir to the servo are out and I can wiggle the
> > MC a bit but not back it off the servo.  I have released the clip on
> > the multi-line clamp holding the hard brake lines.  This is one of two
> > such clamps and this is the one mounted on the wheel well.  There is
> > another clip closer to the ABS unit.
> >
> > Do you recall if the lines need to be actually removed from the
> > restraint of the clips or just open the clip up?  Second question -
> > does the cap on the resevoir need to come off to clear the strut
> > brace?  Third - how far must the MC travel to clear the servo pushrod?
> >
> > All for now, write-up when done.
> >
> > D.
> >
> > On 7/4/06, Fred Munro <munrof at sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > *Sigh* I knew I should have taken the time to take some photos and do a
> write-up on this. I think these cars are linked through the quantum field -
> when a component fails on one, others aren't far behind....At the time I
> just wanted to get the job done.
> > >
> > > Doug, I removed the knee bolster under the steering wheel and the
> drivers side footwell heating duct (the black plastic duct that runs across
> the drivers side footwell). There's an 8 mm bolt on the right side that
> secures it; it's just clipped on the left side. Once that is out of the way
> you can pull the sound deadening foam away from the right side of the pedal
> cluster and expose the servo nuts. You'll need a good light and go through a
> few contortions to see the top left nut. It's relatively easy to get off,
> but a little harder to get on.
> > >
> > > Fred
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Douglas Fifield [mailto:douglas.fifield at gmail.com]
> > > Sent: July 4, 2006 3:28 PM
> > > To: Fred Munro
> > > Cc: brian hoeft; s-car-list at audifans.com
> > > Subject: Re: [s-cars] Brake Light and Thrumming Pedal
> > >
> > >
> > > Happy Fourth everyone.  I am spending mine laying on my back looking
> > > up under the dash and wondering how in the hell am I going to get at
> > > those 13 mm nuts.
> > >
> > > First, I can't see them.  I see the servo push rod where it comes out
> > > and connects to the brake pedal, but there is some sounddeadning foam
> > > pasted up against the bulkhead hiding the nuts from view.  I can't get
> > > a hand up there to try to move it.
> > >
> > > There are a couple of air ducts that go from side to side in the work
> > > area and it would be easier to access I think if the lower duct could
> > > come out.  Brian, Fred, did you have to remove bits and pieces to get
> > > at the nuts?  If so, do you remember what and how?
> > >
> > > Curious minds wish to know.
> > >
> > > D.
> > >
> > > On 7/3/06, Fred Munro < munrof at sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > > Douglas;
> > > >
> > > > I've never had one apart, so I don't know what the failure mode is. It
> could be seals or wear on a seat. You'd want to be very confident in your
> ability to rebuild a servo given that these cars are totally impossible to
> stop without power assist. If your rebuild failed in use, well, it wouldn't
> be pretty.... I imagine the parts would be hard to acquire given they don't
> expect these to be rebuilt. They don't even want the old one back as a core.
> > > >
> > > > Fred
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Douglas Fifield [mailto:douglas.fifield at gmail.com]
> > > > Sent: July 3, 2006 9:33 AM
> > > > To: Fred Munro
> > > > Cc: brian hoeft; s-car-list at audifans.com
> > > > Subject: Re: [s-cars] Brake Light and Thrumming Pedal
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Fred,
> > > >
> > > > What is it that fails in the servo?  Seals?  Must be rebuildable,
> > > > wouldn't you think?
> > > >
> > > > D.
> > > >
> > > > On 7/3/06, Fred Munro < munrof at sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > > > Douglas;
> > > > >
> > > > > You need one foam gasket between the firewall and the servo. The
> Bentley shows an o-ring between the servo and the master cylinder that
> doesn't show up on ETKA and wasn't on my OEM servo when I removed it -
> probably been superceded and not used. You will need 4 new locknuts for the
> servo studs. I reused the old pin clip but it doesn't hurt to replace it. As
> a matter of interest, the new servo I bought from the dealer was
> manufactured in 1992 and had an expiry date on the box of October 2006.
> > > > >
> > > > > Fred
> > > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: Douglas Fifield [mailto:douglas.fifield at gmail.com ]
> > > > > Sent: July 3, 2006 12:41 AM
> > > > > To: Fred Munro
> > > > > Cc: brian hoeft; s-car-list at audifans.com
> > > > > Subject: Re: [s-cars] Brake Light and Thrumming Pedal
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Bryan, Fred, All,
> > > > >
> > > > > Yes, it was the line on the very top of the servo that I
> disconnected
> > > > > and replaced with the 8" brake line.  So it appears the servo is
> toast
> > > > > and needs replacement.  Shit.  Well, it is better to know what is
> bad
> > > > > and fix it than to not know at all.  Will seek replacement tomorrow.
> > > > >
> > > > > Now, further questions - looking at the FA and the Bentley, it
> appears
> > > > > I need a replacement circlip for the pin, two gaskets (why 2), and 8
> > > > > lock nuts (why 8 and not 4).  Is that the concensus?
> > > > >
> > > > > D.
> > > > >
> > > > > On 7/2/06, Fred Munro < munrof at sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > > > > Douglas;
> > > > > >
> > > > > > If it's the return port you connected to (the one on top of the
> servo) your servo is toast. There should be no fluid coming out of this port
> unless the brake pedal is depressed.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Fred
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > From: Douglas Fifield [mailto: douglas.fifield at gmail.com]
> > > > > > Sent: July 2, 2006 5:30 PM
> > > > > > To: brian hoeft
> > > > > > Cc: Fred Munro; s-car-list at audifans.com
> > > > > > Subject: Re: [s-cars] Brake Light and Thrumming Pedal
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > All - followup.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Got the fitting loose. Got the bending tool - used it.  Clamped
> return
> > > > > > line on servo and swapped it for the 8" brake line mit tube into
> > > > > > bottle.  Started engine and watched a solid, pulsing flow of fluid
> > > > > > fill the tube and drain into the bottle.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Please confirm that this means my servo is toast.  If so, I will
> try
> > > > > > to source one tomorrow.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > D.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > On 7/2/06, brian hoeft <qweblog at gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > i used a standard craftsman wrench..
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > first make sure your turning it the proper way.. i know it
> sounds dumb but
> > > > > > > it isnt.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > you can typically feel when its gonna give and strip but its
> likely itll
> > > > > > > give and bust a knuckle just before that.  i made sure my hand
> was clear of
> > > > > > > danger and went at it like i meant it.  dont recall if i used
> PBblaster, but
> > > > > > > if youre worried you can wipe the excess before breaking it
> free..
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > tis all for now, //brian
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > On 7/2/06, Douglas Fifield < douglas.fifield at gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > > > > > OK, I'll check.  Here is my other question for the day.  How
> in blazes
> > > > > > > > to you get the fitting on the return line off?  I can't find
> clearance
> > > > > > > > for my 11 mm brake fitting wrench.  I can get a cheap 11 mm
> stubby on
> > > > > > > > there, but it didn't want to budge and I am afraid of using
> too much
> > > > > > > > force with that wrench and stripping the hex head on the
> fitting.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I am leary of using penetrating oil in this application.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Any suggestions?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > D.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > On 7/2/06, brian hoeft <qweblog at gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > that same NAPA should sell a tube bender,the guys at the
> counter might
> > > > > > > know
> > > > > > > > > it better for bending brake lines.. looks kind of like a
> hockey stick
> > > > > > > w/a
> > > > > > > > > groove to hold the line in place.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > should be just a few bucks for the one you'll need.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > good luck, //brian
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > On 7/1/06, Douglas Fifield < douglas.fifield at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > Fred,
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > I just walked into the house from NAPA with an 8" section
> of metric
> > > > > > > > > > line.  Sounds just like what you describe.  Do you have
> advice on how
> > > > > > > > > > to bend it without kinking it?
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > D.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > On 7/1/06, Fred Munro < munrof at sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > Douglas;
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Ask for 3/16" European metric brake line. It will have
> the proper
> > > > > > > flare
> > > > > > > > > and nut.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > I've attached a photo of my test apparatus.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Fred
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > > > > > > From: Douglas Fifield [mailto: douglas.fifield at gmail.com
> ]
> > > > > > > > > > > Sent: July 1, 2006 12:16 PM
> > > > > > > > > > > To: Fred Munro
> > > > > > > > > > > Cc: s-car-list at audifans.com
> > > > > > > > > > > Subject: Re: [s-cars] Brake Light and Thrumming Pedal
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > All,
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > So, if I want to test the servo as described and go to
> the FLAPS to
> > > > > > > > > > > get a piece of metric brake line, is there just one size
> of flanged
> > > > > > > > > > > fitting, or do I need to know the correct size?  If the
> latter, can
> > > > > > > > > > > someone supply that info?
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Douglas
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > On 6/30/06, Fred Munro < munrof at sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > Douglas;
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > If the level doesn't fall, the bomb is not being
> charged with
> > > > > > > fluid.
> > > > > > > > > This could be a really bad servo or a bad pump. At this
> point I'd do the
> > > > > > > > > servo test to rule that out. A totally dead bomb would also
> not draw
> > > > > > > fluid
> > > > > > > > > out of the reservoir, but it should allow the system to
> pressurize and
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > light would go out.
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > I replaced the servo in a couple hours. You don't need
> to do a
> > > > > > > brake
> > > > > > > > > bleed - you remove the two bolts securing the master
> cylinder to the
> > > > > > > servo,
> > > > > > > > > release the brake lines to the MC from the multi-line clamp,
> and slide
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > MC off the servo without removing the brake lines. When the
> new servo is
> > > > > > > > > installed, you slide the MC back onto the servo and bolt it
> up. You
> > > > > > > don't
> > > > > > > > > have to open up the lines or bleed the brakes.
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > As Brian mentioned, the servo is secured by four 13mm
> nuts that
> > > > > > > also
> > > > > > > > > secure the pedal cluster. The top left nut is a bit tricky
> as Brian
> > > > > > > points
> > > > > > > > > out, but I got it using 18" of 1/4" drive extensions and a
> flex end. You
> > > > > > > > > have to use 1/4" drive stuff or you can't see past the
> extensions to the
> > > > > > > > > nut. You have to use multiple extensions and assemble them
> as you insert
> > > > > > > > > them through the hole in the pedal cluster. Remember to get
> a new sponge
> > > > > > > > > gasket to seal the servo to the firewall. Unfortunately I
> didn't do a
> > > > > > > > > write-up on this.
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > Hopefully you don't need a servo, but the alternative
> is probably
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > pump. If the servo tests good, you'll have to make up a
> pressure testing
> > > > > > > rig
> > > > > > > > > or take the car to the dealer to test the pump output
> pressure.
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > HTH
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > Fred
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > > > > > > > From: Douglas Fifield [mailto:
> douglas.fifield at gmail.com ]
> > > > > > > > > > > > Sent: June 30, 2006 11:07 AM
> > > > > > > > > > > > To: Fred Munro
> > > > > > > > > > > > Cc: s-car-list at audifans.com
> > > > > > > > > > > > Subject: Re: [s-cars] Brake Light and Thrumming Pedal
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > Fred and Everyone Else,
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > Pushed the car out of the garage this morning, raised
> hood, had #1
> > > > > > > son
> > > > > > > > > > > > start engine while I watched G002000 level in
> resivoir.  It was
> > > > > > > above
> > > > > > > > > > > > the full mark at about the seam level around the top
> of the tank.
> > > > > > > It
> > > > > > > > > > > > did not move discernably the whole time the engine was
> running.
> > > > > > > Brake
> > > > > > > > > > > > light was on and brake pedal thrumming.  Turned engine
> off and
> > > > > > > brake
> > > > > > > > > > > > pedal was rock hard.  Resivoir level never changed.
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > What does this tell us?  I will try to find the
> materials to do
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > > > servo leak test, but I don't have those materials
> readily
> > > > > > > available.
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > D.
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > On 6/29/06, Fred Munro < munrof at sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Douglas;
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Do the reservoir drawdown test I detailed in my
> earlier post. If
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > bomb is OK and the servo is leaking, the pump will partially
> charge the
> > > > > > > bomb
> > > > > > > > > and pull oil out of the reservoir with the engine running.
> Once you stop
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > engine, the oil will leak back out of the bomb through the
> servo and
> > > > > > > fill up
> > > > > > > > > the reservoir. If this happens, you'll have to test the
> servo to isolate
> > > > > > > it
> > > > > > > > > as the cause. This leak will be too large to do the Bentley
> servo test.
> > > > > > > You
> > > > > > > > > should use a test rig similar to what I described.
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > If the bomb has failed, the pump will not put much
> oil into it
> > > > > > > and
> > > > > > > > > the level in the reservoir won't change much.
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Fred
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > > > > > > > > From: Douglas Fifield [mailto:
> douglas.fifield at gmail.com]
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent: June 29, 2006 4:24 PM
> > > > > > > > > > > > > To: Fred Munro
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Cc: s-car-list at audifans.com
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Subject: Re: [s-cars] Brake Light and Thrumming
> Pedal
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Fred et al,
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Things have progressed on the brake problem front.
> Now, as soon
> > > > > > > as
> > > > > > > > > I
> > > > > > > > > > > > > turn off the engine, the brake pedal goes rock hard.
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > I am not sure if this means the bomb has failed, or
> if the servo
> > > > > > > is
> > > > > > > > > > > > > leaking so badly that the bomb cannot be
> pressurized.
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Any thoughts?
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > D.
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > On 6/28/06, Fred Munro < munrof at sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > Douglas;
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > The bomb has depressurized overnight. The brake
> light is on to
> > > > > > > > > warn of low
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > pressure in the brake boost system. The thrumming
> brake pedal
> > > > > > > is
> > > > > > > > > caused by
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > the pressure pulses from the positive displacement
> hydraulic
> > > > > > > pump.
> > > > > > > > > When you
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > apply the brakes with no stored pressure in the
> bomb, the
> > > > > > > boost
> > > > > > > > > pressure
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > comes from the pump and you feel the high and low
> pressure
> > > > > > > pulses
> > > > > > > > > as
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > vibration in the brake pedal.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > The bomb discharges due to a leaking check valve
> in the bomb
> > > > > > > or a
> > > > > > > > > leaking
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > brake servo. I used to believe the bomb check
> valve was the
> > > > > > > usual
> > > > > > > > > culprit,
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > but I now suspect the servo is usually at fault.
> The servo can
> > > > > > > > > leak by so
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > badly that the pump will never built up enough
> pressure to
> > > > > > > turn
> > > > > > > > > off the
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > warning light - I just had this problem in my '97
> S6. If your
> > > > > > > > > warning light
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > doesn't go off, this is most likely your problem.
> A bad bomb
> > > > > > > check
> > > > > > > > > valve
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > will not prevent the bomb from pressurizing to
> design
> > > > > > > pressure.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > Flushing the central hydraulic fluid sometimes
> corrects the
> > > > > > > > > problem. Clean
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > the strainer in the reservoir when you flush the
> fluid.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > You can determine if you have a bad servo or check
> valve leak
> > > > > > > by
> > > > > > > > > running the
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > engine and noting the level in the reservoir. Shut
> off the
> > > > > > > engine
> > > > > > > > > and watch
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > the level. If you can see it visibly rising,
> either the servo
> > > > > > > is
> > > > > > > > > toast or
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > the bomb check valve is leaking badly. To test the
> servo, run
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > engine to
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > charge the bomb. Stop the engine. Remove the
> RETURN line on
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > servo (the
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > top connection). If more than a few drops of oil
> leaks out,
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > servo is
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > kaput. If you can see the fluid level rise in the
> reservoir,
> > > > > > > this
> > > > > > > > > test is
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > not a good one for two reasons:
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > 1. By the time you get the return line off, all
> the pressure
> > > > > > > has
> > > > > > > > > leaked out
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > and no oil will be released.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > 2. If you do get the line off in time, so much oil
> will come
> > > > > > > out
> > > > > > > > > you'll have
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > it all over the rack and the driveway.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > I built a test rig to test my servo. I discharged
> the bomb
> > > > > > > > > completely by
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > pumping the brakes and removed the servo return
> line. I
> > > > > > > clamped
> > > > > > > > > off the
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > rubber section of the return line with a brake
> hose clamp. I
> > > > > > > bent
> > > > > > > > > a 8"
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > section of pre-made metric brake line at 90
> degrees and
> > > > > > > threaded
> > > > > > > > > one end
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > into the return line port. I attached a plastic
> hose on the
> > > > > > > other
> > > > > > > > > end and
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > ran the hose into a jar. Start the engine (do NOT
> apply the
> > > > > > > > > brakes!!!) and
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > watch the plastic line. A flow of oil indicates a
> leaking
> > > > > > > servo.
> > > > > > > > > On the '97
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > the oil flow was a steady stream - the servo was
> completely
> > > > > > > shot.
> > > > > > > > > Funny, the
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > car had just been certified too. That explained
> why the
> > > > > > > warning
> > > > > > > > > light was
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > disconnected......
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > HTH
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > Fred Munro
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > '97 S6
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > '94 S4
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > [mailto: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com]On Behalf
> Of Douglas
> > > > > > > > > Fifield
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent: June 28, 2006 9:27 PM
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > To: s-car-list at audifans.com
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > Subject: [s-cars] Brake Light and Thrumming Pedal
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hedz,
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > We have been over this one before, but I keep
> hoping that
> > > > > > > someone
> > > > > > > > > will
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > have figured it out and give me a clue.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > On and off, my S6 has had periods where the brake
> light stays
> > > > > > > on
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > beyond the normal 20 or so seconds in the morning.
>  These
> > > > > > > sessions
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > have been accompaning by a thrumming brake pedal
> and as long
> > > > > > > as
> > > > > > > > > that
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > continues, the brake light stays on.  In the past,
> the
> > > > > > > thrumming
> > > > > > > > > would
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > eventually stop and a few seconds later, the light
> would go
> > > > > > > out.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > Today, it stayed with me and now the car is in the
> garage.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > It seems to stop normally.  Just had the brakes
> flushed last
> > > > > > > week
> > > > > > > > > and
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > the fluid levels are good.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > Any ideas?
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > --
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > Douglas in MN
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > 95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > 73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > S-CAR-List mailing list
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > S-CAR-List at audifans.com
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > --
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Douglas in MN
> > > > > > > > > > > > > 95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
> > > > > > > > > > > > > 73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > --
> > > > > > > > > > > > Douglas in MN
> > > > > > > > > > > > 95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
> > > > > > > > > > > > 73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > --
> > > > > > > > > > > Douglas in MN
> > > > > > > > > > > 95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
> > > > > > > > > > > 73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > --
> > > > > > > > > > Douglas in MN
> > > > > > > > > > 95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
> > > > > > > > > > 73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank
> > > > > > > > > >
> _______________________________________________
> > > > > > > > > > S-CAR-List mailing list
> > > > > > > > > > S-CAR-List at audifans.com
> > > > > > > > > >
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > --
> > > > > > > > Douglas in MN
> > > > > > > > 95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
> > > > > > > > 73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --
> > > > > > Douglas in MN
> > > > > > 95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
> > > > > > 73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Douglas in MN
> > > > > 95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
> > > > > 73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Douglas in MN
> > > > 95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
> > > > 73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Douglas in MN
> > > 95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
> > > 73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Douglas in MN
> > 95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
> > 73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank
> >
>
>

-- 
Douglas in MN
95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank