[s-cars] FW: Brake Light and Thrumming Pedal

[Douglas Fifield]

Brian,

I have a connection that allows me to get parts at a discount.  The
servo itself cost me about 500 bux.  I had to go to the dealer for the
little foam gasket and the "official" "use once" nylocs for an
additional 8 bux with the Q-club discount.

For reinstallation, after setting the clevis distance using a
home-made gage, I took one of the nylocs, backed it with tinfoil, and
shoved it into the 13mm swivel socket used to reach the servo nuts up
under the dash.  The foil was used for two reasons.  One to keep the
nut in the socket while threading it up to the hole, and two, to give
a reflective surface that might be easier to see from the engine
compartment useing a flashlight shone on the appropriate hole.

I did the blind hole first.  I got the nut in the approximate location
as viewed from the engine bay, taped the extensions in place with the
handyman's friend, and gently fed the servo pushrod through the large
center hole, slowly positioning it so the studs were linede up with
their holes and slightly inside them.

Then it was back under the dash to see if I could thread the blind
nut.  It took a bit.  The servo needed to come further it and I was
able to manage that by grasping the push rod in one hand and rotating
the socket extensions with the other.  When the resistance on the
socket extensions grew, I crossed my fingers and hoped that the nut
went on clean.  The remaining three nuts were easy because I had line
of sight vision to the studs.

Oh, another thing I did to help locate the blind nut - I had one of
those silicon caps that looked like a nipple that I put through the
blind hole from the engine side (upper wheel side) and locked in place
with a golf tee that I cut half of the shaft off.  I thought that if I
had something pointy sticking through that perhaps the hole in the nut
might "find" it and center on that location.  Don't know it it helped
or not.  I was pleasantly surprized that I was able to to the job
alone rather than waiting for someone with the right amount of caution
and skill to feed the servo into place (through a maze of hard brake
lines and a dangling MC) while I lay on my back under the dash trying
to start the threaded nut.

Now, I need to get the clamp back on.  I will try it fresh and if
unsuccessful, will unclamp the clamp attached to the wheel well,
remove the strut brace, loosen the bolts holding the MC to the servo,
and gently rearrange things until I can get the lines back in the
clamp.

D.

On 7/7/06, brian hoeft <qweblog at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> wow doug congratulations!  how the frick did you get a new servo so fast?
> mind sharing details of cost?
>
> the lines can be a bitch, but heres a few ideas..  work from the center out,
> getting the ones in the middle secure/in place, then move laterally.  they
> can GENTLY be shifted the direction of the groove back&forth until snug.
> once, (w/think fuel lines on a 4k) i took a drive without the rubber piece
> and only the metal strap fastened,, things found their way back a lot easier
> after a 5 minute cruise..
>
> once they are in position, you take a flathead screwdriver through the top
> of the metal strap, put the flathead tip down on the bottom over the notch,
> genuflect?,, and voila.
>
> to the others that ask about front seat removal.. yes, it would be nice,, i
> thought about it a couple times while my back was screaming arched backwards
> over the doorsill. it is an easy enough task that w/my 20/20 hindsight,
> might have taken some of the edge off.
>
> cheers doug, //brian
>
>
>
> On 7/7/06, Douglas Fifield <douglas.fifield at gmail.com> wrote:
> > Fred,
> >
> > My problem is getting the lines into the clip.  Once that is done,
> > we'll see if the clip cover will close.
> >
> > I removed only the two lines connecting to the servo.  I did not
> > remove any lines connecting to the MC.
> >
> > D.
> >
> > On 7/7/06, Fred Munro <munrof at sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > Doug;
> > >
> > > I had no problem getting the lines back into the clip and the cover
> closed. Is your problem getting the lines into the clip or getting the clip
> cover closed? Did you remove all the lines or only the two lines going to
> the MC?
> > >
> > > Fred
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Douglas Fifield [mailto:douglas.fifield at gmail.com]
> > > Sent: July 7, 2006 5:35 PM
> > > To: Fred Munro
> > > Cc: brian hoeft; s-car-list at audifans.com
> > > Subject: Re: FW: Brake Light and Thrumming Pedal
> > >
> > >
> > > Nearly the end of the saga.  The new servo is in, the bolts are tight,
> > > the lines are connected, the electrical connections are in place, and
> > > it runs.
> > >
> > > Didn't want to start, which was strange, but it finally caught and
> > > felt like it picked up one cylinder at at time.  Brake light went out
> > > right away, no visible leaks.
> > >
> > > Took it for a test drive and pedal feel was much better.  Two
> > > successive drives later of slightly longer distances and all appears
> > > well.  Much satisfaction.
> > >
> > > Only remaining problem is that I can't get the front, multi-line clamp
> > > back in place.  This is a plastic block with rubber insulated channels
> > > to hold seven hard brake lines.  I tried everything I could think of
> > > to get it in place with all the right lines in their little spaces,
> > > but could not get it to go.
> > >
> > > I am worried that there will be contact and wear between the lines if
> > > I do not get the block back in.  Any suggestions?  I did not
> > > disconnect the lines from the master cylinder.  I moved the MC with
> > > lines intact to back it out of the servo.  There may be residual
> > > displacement of the hard lines due to that.  If there are any wise men
> > > out there with thoughts, I would love to hear them.
> > >
> > > D.
> > >
> > > On 7/6/06, Douglas Fifield <douglas.fifield at gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > It's out.
> > > >
> > > > Now, to see if I can get the new one in.
> > > >
> > > > D.
> > > >
> > > > On 7/5/06, Douglas Fifield <douglas.fifield at gmail.com > wrote:
> > > > > All,
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks guys.  I will try again tomorrow.  I think I know the hole
> you
> > > > > are talking about.  I have peered through that little geezer many
> > > > > times but saw no nut.  Knowing that it is there and that is the
> magic
> > > > > portal makes me want to go at it again.  I will take more pics and
> > > > > provide the promised write-up.
> > > > >
> > > > > The strut brace came off and I was able to slide the MC out of the
> > > > > servo.  It is only that one invisible nut that stands in the way of
> > > > > removal.  I don't even want to think about trying to get them back
> on.
> > > > >  One worry at a time.
> > > > >
> > > > > I know I have said it before, but it bears repeating.  You guys are
> > > > > the best.  If it were not for this list, I would not be able to keep
> > > > > and drive the impressive and admirable S6.  If you are ever in the
> > > > > Twin Cities region of Minnesota, give me a shout and the beverages
> are
> > > > > on me.
> > > > >
> > > > > D.
> > > > >
> > > > > On 7/5/06, Fred Munro <munrof at sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > From: Fred Munro [mailto:munrof at sympatico.ca]
> > > > > > Sent: July 5, 2006 7:54 PM
> > > > > > To: brian hoeft; Douglas Fifield
> > > > > > Cc: s-car-list at audifans.com
> > > > > > Subject: RE: Brake Light and Thrumming Pedal
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > LOL - easier typed than done for sure.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Doug, as Brian mentioned it's a lot easier if you remove the strut
> brace.
> > > > > > There is no problem removing and re-installing it. Pop the brake
> lines out
> > > > > > of the line clip and the MC should slide right off.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The hole is in the pedal mount housing itself. If you shine a
> light through
> > > > > > the hole you can see the last nut. Using 1/4" drive gear allows
> you to look
> > > > > > alongside the extensions and see to guide the socket onto the nut.
> If you
> > > > > > use 3/8" drive extensions you can't see a thing and have to go by
> feel like
> > > > > > Brian did. You'll need 3 six in extensions and maybe a 3". You put
> the
> > > > > > socket on one 6" extension and slide it through the hole in the
> pedal
> > > > > > bracket. Clip on another extension and slide it further. Clip on
> the final
> > > > > > extension and slide the socket onto the nut.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Good luck!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Fred
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > From: brian hoeft [mailto: qweblog at gmail.com]
> > > > > > Sent: July 5, 2006 6:36 PM
> > > > > > To: Douglas Fifield
> > > > > > Cc: Fred Munro; s-car-list at audifans.com
> > > > > > Subject: Re: Brake Light and Thrumming Pedal
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > hey, dude, i'll be home in an hour or so where i'll be able to
> > > > > > load/forward you some pics.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > theres a rounded rectangular hole in the silver-metallic pedal
> bracket.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > .. maybe you should back up, you might be looking past it.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > its still not going to be easy. remember, attach as you go.
> fred's
> > > > > > cooler than me cause i never saw them, i only felt them.  i even
> did
> > > > > > some of the searching with my eyes closed.  .. i used 3/8
> extentions,
> > > > > > fred used 1/4, whatever the case, if theyre through the bracket
> hole,
> > > > > > push until you hit firewall/servo then move cautiously till you
> feel
> > > > > > the nut,, pull back ever so slightly, then snatch it w/the socket.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ..easier typed than done.
> > > > > > //brian
> > > > > >
> > > > > > O
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Douglas in MN
> > > > > 95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
> > > > > 73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Douglas in MN
> > > > 95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
> > > > 73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Douglas in MN
> > > 95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
> > > 73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Douglas in MN
> > 95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
> > 73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank
> >
>
>


-- 
Douglas in MN
95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank