[s-cars] T-Belt R&R - Addendum To Fred's Write-up

[Pasqualoni, James E]

-Bob's got a six-foot Strap-On?  Damn!  Ark of the Convent heh heh....
-Paul-I think I've got a clamp fer ya.  Pick it up next wk. 

-----Original Message-----
From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
[mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of pkrasusky at ups.com
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 1:46 PM
To: s-car-list at audifans.com; mark.pollan at verizonbusiness.com
Subject: Re: [s-cars] T-Belt R&R - Addendum To Fred's Write-up


Mark uncannily timed:

<<<Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2006 13:42:49 -0400
From: Mark Pollan <mark.pollan at verizonbusiness.com>
Subject: [s-cars] T-Belt R&R - Addendum To Fred's Write-up


This is my second go around and my second time using Fred's awesome
write-up and everything again went off without a hitch.  As was the case
first time around, there are a few details missing from Fred's write-up
that I thnk would be beneficial to keep in mind when embarking on this
project.

1.	The crank lock in my opinion is a must.  If you cannot borrow or
rent one, then buy or fabricate one.
2.	Do yourself a favor and get one of those pre-made 6mm hex
sockets.
You are going to find that almost every fastener is 6mm and although you
can most certainly go through this effort without one (as I did) you
will appreciate having said trivial piece.
3.	The hex head bumper bolts are 6mm.
4.	To remove the two front bolts securing the hydraulic pump to the
mount, remove the hydraulic pump pulley.  A strap wrench and a 6mm hex
wrench (see what I mean) worked well here.
5.	I did not replace the crank seal.
6.	I did not replace the keyed pulley on the harmonic balancer as I
could not break the bolts securing said pulley to the balancer.  Contact
me directly if you are interested in mine.

I doubt if Archimedes ever removed a crank bolt but I advise you heed
his leverage law.  That said, I had about a six foot lever.  Breaking
the bolt was significantly more difficult than re-torqueing it.  That
loctite really works I guess.  Honestly the part that gave *me* the most
frustration was getting the balancer back on the crank and then getting
those small bolts that secure the lower t-belt cover threaded in.

Hope this helps others in the future and many thanks to Fred Munro for
taking the time to document the procedure so thoroughly.>>>





Too funny Mark - I tackled mine this weekend too.  Over Dr. Rossato's,
to benefit from his watchful eye and have access to his Ark of The
Covenant tool box chock full 'o Snap On.  Don't look directly inside it
or risk blinding yourself!!!

What an easy job.  Time consuming but very easy really, few hours Fri.
night and wrapped up few hours Sat.  Easy job that is, WITH Fred's
detailed write up handy, AND easy with the right tools, AND easy with
your very own Rossato over yer shoulder making sure you don't F up.  SO
SO SO much easier with the right tools, and good ones.  Cannot over
emphasize that part.  Yes, def. need that 6mm hex socket, got a ton of
use.

Appeared thy who serviced the tbelt previously had enlarged the lower
front shield circle a bit and we were able to leave it on.  Made getting
pulley on with belt a bit more of a finagle, but a neat shortcut I'm
guessing.

Front seal is a joke - again - with the correct puller.  Came out and
went back in within seconds.

Heh, crank bolt came right off and torqued right up - of course - using
a 6' Snap On torque wrench will do that 8-).  Amazing, Bob, amazing.
Question, just how important is it to antiseize the crank bolt, what
with 338ft/lb. holding it on and all?  Curious...

We too opted to remount the crank pulley, despite also having one on
hand and the rash of recent failures.  Bob took out his bajillion dollar
digicam and shot a few zooms to dump into the laptop and play CSI.  Blew
them up and inspected, crank key was slightly crushed from where it was
seated but no material compromise existed so we mounted it back up.
This at 160k, the marks on it likely evidence of the 1st tbelt job not
done using the crank lock (my strong guess).  Also of note, the harmonic
balancer had a bit of crumble to the perimeter.  It really appeared to
only be topical and not permeate all the way down.

Was also thinking about the labor-saved thing.  With WP, tstat, fan
belt, seal, etc., and dealer cost parts, this is easily a $2k job - my
guess.  Cannot beat Tim Leclair / FAP's kit, with coolant (Pentosin blue
to boot), shipped, for ~ $138!!!  Awesome.  VERY satisfying for it to
fire up first turn, sans anything clanky clanky.  

Unrelated, anyone got a spare MMan hose clamp (non-OE) laying around
after a FMIC install or something else goofy?  I blew apart a T-clamp
Thurs. night, double OE's now seem to hold but...

More unrelated, reading Manny's xpost to AW regarding PCV leak - thanks
for the reaffirmation of why I don't post there.  Unreal.  And, Manny's
coming up from VA for //SFest I now see.  Awesome Manny!

-Paul //SFest Cometh K.
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