[s-cars] [urq] Liquid penetrant test - 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone beats Kroil etc.

[Vincent Frégeac]

Tried it using penetrating oil then antiseize instead of candle wax. Works
very well on a bolt/nut assembly when using a wet cloth on the bolt to cool
it while you heat the nut. The penetrating oil evaporating on the hot bolt
also helps the cooling of the bolt. Works not as well when the bolt goes
into a large metal part. In that case, an oxyacetylene torch is almost
mandatory, propane will never keep up with the heat dissipation in metal.

Its also a very usefull trick when a dumb ass mech has used
brute force (like heavy duty impact left on max pressure) to tighten the
wheel bolt. In that case, heat should be applied on the bolt just to help
the antiseize to liquify.

The only drawback is all the areas the torch have touched will rust in the
next couple of weeks so when working on painted parts such as some
suspension parts, I prefer the longer, cooler, penetrating oil for a week
method.


Vincent.


2007/4/27, Ingo Rautenberg <ingo.rautenberg at gmail.com>:
>
> One other one I read about is the 'Candle Trick.'
>
> Got this from one of the droF forums:
>
> "The easiest and slickest way to deal with rusted-in bolts,
> regardless of where they are is as follows;
> 1. find a candle....yes, an ordinary candle from the kitchen drawer
> 2. get a torch. acetylene or mapp work best, but propane will do
> 3. heat the metal AROUND the offending bolt as hot as is practical.
> 4. feed the candle into the threads untill the wax quits melting
> 5. repeat 3&4 a couple of times
> 6. use an easy out or a pair of pliers (if a stub is left...)
>
> Quit cussing these situations and start acting like a hero because
> you know this trick. most of the time, the bolts will come out with
> finger effort! this uses the same principle as sweating copper
> fittings, and will clean and lubricate the threads to the point that
> removal is too easy."
>
> Anyone tried it?
>
> Ingo
>
>
>
> On Apr 27, 2007, at 9:17 AM, Ingo Rautenberg wrote:
>
> > Ben,
> >
> > Interesting.  I wonder what straight ATF would be -- it's an
> > excellent penetrant by itself IME and as demonstrated to me by fellow
> > lister Tim Hollister :-)
> >
> > Ingo
> >
> > On Apr 27, 2007, at 1:17 AM, Ben Swann wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> Subject: [MB] Liquid penetrant test
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Here is some interesting info to test various liquid penetrants.
> >> This was
> >> taken from a machining site.  Thought I would pass it along for your
> >> consumption.  This is from the Vintage Jap MC list.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> The "test" was using a Baldwin compressometer set on 1200-pound
> >> scale to
> >> determine the load required to move a "dowel pin" on 6 identical
> >> setups.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Since ASCII plain-text email tends to "move around", the three
> >> columns which
> >> follow may get messed up, but here goes...
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Oil used_________________Avg load(Lbs)to move pin______price/oz
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> HomeBrew 50-50, ATF&Acetone______53___________________$0.10
> >>
> >> Kano Kroil_______________________106__________________$0.75
> >>
> >> Liquid Wrench____________________127__________________$0.21
> >>
> >> PB Blaster_______________________214__________________$0.35
> >>
> >> WD-40____________________________238__________________$0.25
> >>
> >> none_____________________________516__________________$0.00
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> FWIW - I know what I'll be trying in a pinch.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Ben
> >>
> >>
> >>
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