[s-cars] now - subframe removal instructions

[Mike Fitton]

Oh yeah...one thing I forgot.  The studs for the rear subframe aren't 
perfectly vertical.  Not a big deal when your mounts have some 
compliance, but the new ones have no compliance at all.  After numerous 
attempts, we just couldn't get the thing in on all four corners.  So we 
pulled it out and drilled out the mounts just a little bigger.  The stud 
is an M10, so a 12mm drill bit should be good.  It was still a little 
tight, but at least it allowed us to get it in.  In retrospect, it's 
possible that you could put four of the clamshells up on the studs, put 
the subframe up, then the other four clamshells on the bottom.  
Sequential like.  I'd be curious to see if that worked.  My biggest 
concern would be getting the uppers into the subframe straight.  I 
didn't like the idea of drilling out my new mounts, and I probably would 
have done that if I didn't have to press some of them in.  In any case, 
you can bolt it down pretty hard, so enlarging the hole a little 
shouldn't be a problem.

And if you're thinking about replacing the rear diff mount, there will 
never be a better time.

Okay, now I'm done.

-Cheers!
Mike

pkrasusky at ups.com wrote:
> Mike Fitton'd:
>
> <<<Go for a drive.  Dig the way it suddenly makes your five rubber
> luxury 
> car diff mounts feel like warm turds as you get on and off the 
> throttle.  Buy your sucker/friend a hot, classy meal at Denny's.  Spring
>
> for the milk shake.  Flirt with the waitress.  Go home and sleep for 14 
> hours.
>
> -Cheers!
>
>
>
>
> A Friday "BWHAHahahahaha" award to you there Mike.  Thanks for the Fri.
> a.m. much needed slaying.  Bwhahahahaa.  
>
> Paul seyz the Bentley and all shop manuals alike should read as such.  A
> new career opp for you Mike?
>
> -Paul warm turded subframe, control arms, boxer shorts, etc. K.
>
>
>
>
>
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