[s-cars] Off with the drive shaft

[bill mahoney]

I believe the part numbers for the aforementioned sub frame crossmember to
differential are:
Cross member assembly per the local audi dealer  441505128   ($430)
Differential Bushing (for the above cross member, two required)  443505145A
($30 ea)
Perhaps and hopefully these come with the assembly... I dunno.
New bolts with self locking nuts should also be used... but dunno that
number myself but the dealer should.
HTH
Bill~etka not~M





On 3/23/07, Mark Turczyn <mkturczyn at verizon.net> wrote:
>
>  Thanks to Bill and other list members who posted me off list-- I will be
> pulling my drive shaft off with confidence soon--
>
>
>
>
> We just used a length of 2 x 4 with some notches cut so as to facilitate
> keeping the board tight along the drive shaft.  We secured to the board
> with
> some long hose clamps.
>
>
>
> Ok --first I have to find a straight 2 x 4 which I have not seen in four
> years in the local home centers..
>
>
> So  If I can find one that is straight in the 3.5 inch direction I will
> know the shaft is straight in one direction and if I never unclamp it I know
> it is straight in in 5 axis.
>
>
> What if you have to work on the center bearing and remove the board and
> clamps?  I can clamp it all back up but is it now more of a handling fixture
> then a control fixture?
>
>
> From the opinions I have gathered -- you really only need a handling
> fixture if you carefully mark the CB bracket location and keep track of the
> shim stack on each side.
>
>
> If that is the case there is no need for me to get real fancy and use my
> old aluminum four foot level and had some plastic V blocks.
>
>
>
>
>
> FWIW, I see now that 034 sells this $100 drive shaft support bracket.
> http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info.php?products_id=579
>
> Maybe you can be the first to try this out and let us know how it works?;)
>
>
>
>
>
> I hope I do not need to replace mine--- what is your opinion of how soft
> my support rubber is around the bearing---mine is more like a soft
> diaphragm---no tears or rips but the weight of the shaft does seem to sag it
> down a slight amount.
>
>
>
> I recall the rear end of the shaft was a bear to get off without the
> proper
> tool (and know how,) but in the end the edge of a short dense piece of 2 x
> 4
> and a five pound hammer did the trick.
>
>
>
>
>
> I dead blow hammered the front one to break it free from the gasket.
>
>
> Too bad I cannot just drop it down from the tranny in the front and try to
> re-grease or remove it in place.
>
>
> I cannot seem to pull it back far enough for the center shaft to clear the
> lip of the tranny prop shaft.
>
>
> Anyone know if this can be done and I am not getting full stroke due to
> the dry grease????
>
>
>
> While your at it you could check for what is one of my latest problems
> too,
> which could probably cause some driveline vibration.  That is the two
> bushings that attach the forward subframe cross member to the
> differential.
> Now may be a good time to change these if they appear worn.  Problem is I
> have no advice on how to tell if they are worn.  My own is obvious because
> of the occasional metal to metal noise upon acceleration / deacceleration.
>
>
>
>
> Now you got me thinking about more fixes.   I suspected a dry CV joint
> since I was getting a metal to metal hammering when accelerating.  Now you
> say even with good CV joints you get the same noise.
>
>
> I hope you fix your problem before I get my shaft R & R finished so I can
> fix it before I put everything back together.
>
>
>
> I have a new/used cross member coming tomorrow so I may know a part number
> then.  Needless to say, my cross member is rusted enough that I just
> figured
> to replace the whole thing.
>
>
>
>
> Please do.
>
>
> ALSO while you're in there now is more than an excellent time for new
> ebrake
> cables.  They will never be easier.  If not, at least tighten them up.
> You'll see the one nut that does this for sure.
>
>
>
>
> Great advice----
>
>
>
> Hopefully you have a lift.  If not you'd best call Mike Platt cause he
> loves
> this real man stuff;)
>
>
>
>
> No lift-- jack stands, hard driveway, weak back.
>
>
> I have sort of retired meself from this heavy duty mechanic urS stuff and
> will gladly outsource my crossmember and new throw out bearing repair to
> the
> local mechanic race car wrench.  oh yeah!
>
>
>
>
> You are a smart man--- I am a sucker for a challenge-- but am not sure I
> ever want to do a clutch if it goes.  Did my wife's 90 one summer and swore
> that paying someone with a lift is the ticket.
>
>
> I am doing the drive shaft because I think I can survive under the car for
> this operation.
>
>
>
> I remain really good at and sickly enjoy new brake installs however.
>
>
>
>
>
> Hmmm-- says a lot about your present state of mind.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Mark Turczyn
>