[s-cars] the GB CPS how too install?

Mon May 21 14:52:41 EDT 2007

I just installed the GB CPS and my car started without sending flying bolts
and parts all over the driveway, so I though I could as well share some of
my experience.

As my last T-Belt job was 52 Kmiles ago, I've done the whole T-Belt job at
the same time. Overall, it took me 8 hours but I was taking my time,
sunbathing, doing some cleaning (parts cleaned with Wurth Engine Cleaner,
throat cleaned with cold Heineken) and trying to find a way for a radio in
the messy Fiat Spider's wiring while the epoxy was curing. I'm quite sure it
can be done in 1 or 2 hours less including T-Belt job. Last T-Belt job was
4h45 thanks to Fred Munro's excellent write up on S-Car.org:
http://tinyurl.com/2wcxg4 and the CPS specific part is an additional 1-1.5h.
If you're not changing the T-Belt and related stuff, it shouldn't take more
than 3-4 hours.

Small piece of advice, when starting a 3 hours more job, don't rely on your
memory. Buy a box of Ziploc bags and use them to put together the parts you
have remove at each step, labeling the bags with the step number. It will
make the reinstall so much easier and faster, plus you won't have to remove
everything again because you find that you have one bolt left once
everything is back in place.

Disclaimer: The CPS have been on the car for less than 10 miles so I can't
say this write up is _the_ way to go. It's just the way I've done it.

If you're not changing the T-Belt and related stuff, you can stop at the
step 14 on Fred's write up, and then do the "CPS" steps, but I suggest you
read Fred's write up entirely anyway just to have a good idea of what you
will be dealing with before you start. If you're doing the T-Belt too, just
insert the following steps between Fred's 14 and 15.

15 CPS - Loosen the bolt (24mm) on the camshaft pulley. On my car, torque
was surprisingly low and I didn't have to lock the pulleys. YMMV but a
screwdriver through the pulley holes should effectively lock the camshaft
pulley if the engine turns instead of the bolt.

16 CPS - Loosen the bolts (10mm) on the T-Belt tensioner and release the
tension on the T-Belt.

17 CPS - Remove the T-Belt from the camshaft pulley, water pump and
tensioner, and push it on the left side (car's left). Cover the crankshaft
pulley area with a cloth so dirt won't fall on the precious T-Belt teeth.

18 CPS - Remove the 24mm bolt and pull the camshaft pulley. It should come
right off.

19 CPS - Just below the camshaft, you will see the CPS on an aluminium
bracket. Yes, it's the CPS even if it doesn't look at all like the new CPS.
It's grey, with some metal part on the upper side, but it's the CPS. There's
even more differences between the two but we'll discuss that later.

20 CPS - Remove the bolts (10mm) holding the bracket.

21 CPS - Gently pry off the bracket, moving 1mm each side at a time. There's
a pin on the lower side of the bracket that keep the bracket from coming
off. It should be worked out slowly if you don't want to bend the bracket. A
drop of penetrating oil on this pin will help a lot.

22 CPS - Unplug the CPS at the front of the fuel rail. Remove the lower part
of the plug from its bracket. The plug should find its way behind various
rubber and metal hoses in the front of the engine then you can remove the
CPS, bracket, leads and plug.

23 CPS - Gently pry of the CPS from the bracket. It's glued on but should
come in one piece, leaving only some plastic residue on the bracket.

24 CPS - Splice the new CPS according to your own religion (i.e. solder or
crimp). Mine recommends soldering with acid paste and heat shrink tubing but
YMMV. I spliced the leads 2" from sensor, using small heat shrink to
insulate individual wires, plus a large heat shrink to hold the wires
together, plus the factory sheathing over everything.

25 CPS - Now come the scary part: that's where you realize that the new CPS
has very little in common with the factory one, beside the color of the
three wires. The new CPS has some kind of copper rivets while the original
CPS was glued on pins with no holes for riveting. I pondered a while whether
I will modify the bracket to be able to rivet the CPS or modify the CPS's
rivets so they will fit on the bracket pins. Instead of messing with the
bracket and have no way to reinstall the old CPS if something goes wrong, I
decided to use the factory way, i.e. gluing. The original CPS was apparently
glued with some kind of cyanocrilate but I do not trust this type of glue
when there is vibration. Beside, cyanocrilate requires a perfect fit you
won't be able to achieve with a drill. I used an heavy duty flexible epoxy
instead. (My way to know if an epoxy is a good quality flexible kind is to
glue the cleaned ends of two 12 gauge solid wires with a large drop of glue
leaving 1-2 mm between the wire ends. Once cured for 24 h, I bend slightly
the two ends several times. There shouldn't be any crack in the glue and no
delaminated spots on the wire ends.) Once again, YMMV and you should follow
what your own religion recommends in term of glue.

26 CPS - The pin on the bracket is 5mm at the bottom part and 3mm at the
top. As you can't expect to be precise enough to perfectly center the holes
you'll have to drill, I recommend using slightly larger drill bits. I
drilled a 9/64" hole all the way through the rivet, then cut the protruding
part of the rivet on the bracket side of the CPS. I used 13/64" to drill the
bracket side of the rivet. The rivet is made of two rings. When drilling the
bracket side, the bracket side ring came off. It was not expected but
doesn't really matter as the epoxy will fill the hole. Beside, the epoxy
will now stick on plastic and copper so there's less chance of incompatible
surface.

27 CPS - As you don't want the CPS to fly onto the T-Belt, you want to make
sure the glue will stick on the bracket and CPS forever. Clean the bracket
from any plastic residue with a dremel and wire brush. Then clean the
bracket and CPS with alcohol. Then clean it again, and again, then let dry.
Test fit the modified CPS on the bracket. In my case, it was a somewhat
tight fit and I had to use pliers to press it on, but I think it depends how
centered the new holes are.

28 CPS - Apply a drop of epoxy in each hole in the CPS, then another drop on
the bracket pins. Spread each drop of epoxy with a tooth pick to remove any
bubble then press the CPS on so the wires will face the camshaft once the
bracket is back in place.

29 CPS - Let the epoxy cure at least until it's not sticky (approx. 1 hour).
If you have time let it cure for 24 hours (I never use 30 min epoxy for
critical job, I don't trust it. No rationale here, just that I'm kind of
ARly conservative sometime)

Alt 25-29 CPS - If you decide riveting is a better way to go, here is the
steps I pondered with before I choose the epoxy route. Follow them at your
own risk as no BTDT: cut the pins off the bracket. Mark the center of the
remaining of the pins with a punch then drill out the pins with a 5mm bit.
If the CPS rivets doesn't want to go in the newly drilled holes, don't use a
larger bit as the problem is not the size of the holes but their centers.
Use a small round file, or a small stone dremel bit, and remove some
material toward the center of the bracket until the rivets fit in the holes.
For this type of rivet, I planned to gently hammer it first with a #2Philips
screwdriver until it has a funnel shape. This would also remove any play if
the hole is larger than the rivet. Then I would slowly hammer it flat with a
small flat screwdriver. I'm sure a riveting tool will work great too but I
thought the screwdriver way would be better because I would have control the
rivet shape at any time. Once again, no BTDT so try with caution.

30 CPS - As Bentley says, install in reverse order of removal. Once the
camshaft pulley, T-Belt and T-Belt tensioner are back in place, rotate the
engine two full turn by hand to check that both camshaft and crankshaft
pulleys align to the TDC marks. The camshaft is very hard to turn once the
pulley is removed so there is little chance it has moved during the R&R, but
you don't want to take any chance. You should pay extra attention to this
step but a one tooth error is very easy to see on the camshaft pulley. After
turning the engine twice by hand, check also the T-Belt tension. You should
be able to turn the belt 90 degree with two fingers between the camshaft and
crankshaft pulley. Retension the T-Belt accordingly.

31 CPS - If you used epoxy and didn't let it cure for 24h, wait 24h before
starting the car.

An alternative route would be to remove the camshaft pulley without
releasing the tension on the T-Belt. I've never BTDT so I don't recommend it
but if the list wisdom says it can be done, it should take 2 hours or less
to complete the R&R. In that case, replace Fred's 1-14 by:

1- Remove the T-Belt upper cover. On my car, it requires to release the
serpentine belt tension (17mm open wrench to turn the tensioner than a 1/4"
bolt to lock the tensioner in place), then partially unbolt the tensioner
bracket (6mm allen key as there is no place for an allen socket and rachet).
There is two clips on the higher part of the T-Belt cover. There's also a
provision for a third clip on the lower left part of the cover but the clip
is missing on the engine side on my car. As usual, YMMV.

2 - Rotate the engine to TDC.

Jump directly to the step 15 CPS.

A special thank to Bill Mahoney for providing me with one of his Rossatoing
GB CPS (Yes, he had _two_ of them Rossatoing!)

Vincent

-----Message d'origine-----
De : s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
[mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com] De la part de forrest bradshaw
Envoyé : 17 mai 2007 13:53
À : audifans
Objet : [s-cars] the GB CPS how too install?

does anyone have a write up on the installation of the group buy cam
position sensor from last year?

  thanks

---------------------------------
You snooze, you lose. Get messages ASAP with AutoCheck
 in the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta. 
_______________________________________________
S-CAR-List mailing list
S-CAR-List at audifans.com
http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 15/05/07
10:47

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.6/813 - Release Date: 20/05/07
07:54