[s-cars] The GB CPS write up - Update

[Vincent Frégeac]

There are apparently two models of CPS used in the urS. As Teddy mentioned,
his '92 urS had a CPS similar to the GB CPS while mine used a fairly
different CPS. The family album list only one part number from 92 to 96 so
it seems the only way to find out which one you need is to remove it.
Considering the cost of the CPS, I suggest you buy the two models instead of
drilling, glueing, and crossing fingers like I did.

http://www.bbautomacao.com/home_hall_effect_vane_sensors.html

The GB CPS is the CYHME301. The S-Bitch had a CYHME56. Both will work but
installing the same model than you have on your car will probably be easier.



Vincent.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : Theodore Chen [mailto:tedebearp at yahoo.com] 
Envoyé : 21 mai 2007 15:16
À : Vincent Frégeac; 'forrest bradshaw'; 'audifans'; 'bill mahoney'
Objet : Re: [s-cars] the GB CPS how too install?


--- Vincent Frégeac <s.sikss at gmail.com> wrote:

> Last T-Belt job was
> 4h45 thanks to Fred Munro's excellent write up on S-Car.org:
> http://tinyurl.com/2wcxg4 and the CPS specific part is an additional
1-1.5h.

it was probably about a half hour for me, but i already had the camshaft
pulley off to change the camshaft seal.

> Small piece of advice, when starting a 3 hours more job, don't rely on
your
> memory. Buy a box of Ziploc bags and use them to put together the parts
you
> have remove at each step, labeling the bags with the step number. It will
> make the reinstall so much easier and faster, plus you won't have to
remove
> everything again because you find that you have one bolt left once
> everything is back in place.

what he said.  i had several jars for bolts and it wasn't enough to
keep everything straight.

> 19 CPS - Just below the camshaft, you will see the CPS on an aluminium
> bracket. Yes, it's the CPS even if it doesn't look at all like the new
CPS.
> It's grey, with some metal part on the upper side, but it's the CPS.
There's
> even more differences between the two but we'll discuss that later.

sounds like your car is different.  mine looked like the replacement CPS
and it was black.

> 21 CPS - Gently pry off the bracket, moving 1mm each side at a time.
There's
> a pin on the lower side of the bracket that keep the bracket from coming
> off. It should be worked out slowly if you don't want to bend the bracket.
A
> drop of penetrating oil on this pin will help a lot.

i don't recall a pin.  after i took out the bolts, the bracket came right
off.

> 23 CPS - Gently pry of the CPS from the bracket. It's glued on but should
> come in one piece, leaving only some plastic residue on the bracket.

mine was riveted on.  i drilled them out.  there was no glue.

> 24 CPS - Splice the new CPS according to your own religion (i.e. solder or
> crimp). Mine recommends soldering with acid paste and heat shrink tubing
but
> YMMV. I spliced the leads 2" from sensor, using small heat shrink to
> insulate individual wires, plus a large heat shrink to hold the wires
> together, plus the factory sheathing over everything.

i soldered, too.  i also left a lot of the old wire in place and did my
best to make the splices accessible in case i have to go back in there
(i.e. i screwed up a splice).

> 25 CPS - Now come the scary part: that's where you realize that the new
CPS
> has very little in common with the factory one, beside the color of the
> three wires. The new CPS has some kind of copper rivets while the original
> CPS was glued on pins with no holes for riveting.

your car is different.  the new CPS looked exactly like the old one, except
that two of the wires were swapped.  i matched up color to color.  to secure

the CPS to the bracket, i used a nail and then a center punch to flatten the
rivets.

i see why it took you so long.  mine was a piece of cake, except for
a brief pause to figure out whether the altered position of the wires
on the new CPS would be an issue.

my car is a '92.  isn't yours a '97?

-teddy



       
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