[s-cars] Rear end squeak

[chris chambers]

Bob,

I believe this is Dave's website:
http://www.pmwltd.com/index.php

Where I found the following contact info:
Mr. Dave Stone
Performance Machine Works, LTD
Erie, Colorado
Phone: (303) 828-4546
E-Mail: dave at pmwltd.com

HTH
Chris


--- Manuel Sanchez <manuelsanchez at starpower.net> wrote:

> Bob,
> 
> This happens to my HRSB joints all the time. I spray a little  
> Boeshield on top of them and they quiet down for a few months, then I
>  
> let them have it again.
> 
> Dave Stone makes the upgraded Heim Links. I don't know how to reach  
> him or how much they cost. I pinged Hap once about them and he  
> described them as "pricey".
> 
> Regards,
> 
> -manny
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2007 09:11:32 -0400
> From: Robert Myers <robert at s-cars.org>
> Subject: [s-cars] Rear end squeak
> To: "s-car-list" <s-car-list at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <7.0.0.16.2.20071102085723.033a7370 at chips-ur-s.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
> 
> 
> Hi Y'all,
> 
> My urS6 has developed a nasty squeak in the rear end.  It comes from
> both sides but the driver's side is making more noise.  The noise is
> particularly objectionable when crossing a parking lot speed bump but
> it is there with every little bump in the road.  I think I have
> traced the squeak to rusted Heim links of the HRSB installed in the
> car.  I have pulled both rear wheels, sprayed the Heim link friction
> points with Kroil and then rubbed some grease into ("onto" is
> probably a better word here)  them.  I'm hoping that the grease will
> work it's way inside the links and quiet the squeaking.  Is there a
> better way to accomplish this lube job?  I didn't pull the links and
> work on them on the bench since I don't have a lift and getting both
> wheels off the ground is awkward.  I can do that, if necessary, but
> would prefer not to if I don't have to.
> 
> BTW, has anyone sourced a different Heim link for this
> application?  The originals are adjustable only by removing the link
> from at least one end since the "adjustor" has only right hand
> threads on each end.  Right and left hand threads would allow in situ
> adjustment.
> 
> Bob
> 
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> 


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