[s-cars] Door latch woes redux

[Marc Gorelick]

Hi Chris,

Thanks...I was wondering where the return action came from. Glad I 
didn't bother replacing the cable.

I think I'll put the thing back together until it gets warmer out. This 
project will be a lot better in May than it is in February. You are a 
fellow Michigander, you know what I mean. ;-)

Marc




chris chambers wrote:
> Marc,
>
> had the same problem a couple years ago, problem is in the lock
> mechanism.
>
> The lock assembly bolts into the door and has a spring that
> gets all corroded and gummed up. The door handle cable is attached
> to a lever that sticks and won't "flip back" when you close the door
> because of the gummed up spring. When you push the door handle back
> you are pushing the cable back which pushes the lever back into
> position
> so that it can latch.
>
> What I ended up doing was removing the latch assembly and soaking it
> in transmission fluid for ~ 24 hours, actuating all the levers every
> couple of hours. After ~ 24 hours it was clean and moved find, I then
> cleaned it with brake cleaner and regreased the assembly with lithium
> grease.
>
> It's 3 years later and it hasn't messed up since.
>
> Good luck
> HTH
> Chris
>   
>
>  
>
>
> --- Marc Gorelick <marc at frogville.net> wrote:
>
>   
>> Esteemed Listers:
>>
>> About a month ago there was a thread here regarding a door latch
>> problem 
>> where the exterior door handle would not release the door latch. I
>> have 
>> a slightly different issue and am looking for a bit of input.
>>
>> In my case, the right rear door of my '93 does not close properly if
>> is 
>> opened from the inside. I suspect that the return spring that pulls
>> the 
>> interior door handle back into place has broken. Anyone who opens
>> that 
>> door from the inside must push the handle back into position before
>> the 
>> door will latch closed again after they get out of the car.
>>
>> I took the interior door panel apart and lubed a few things around
>> the 
>> latch, but this doesn't seem to have helped.  From looking at the FA,
>>
>> (or KATE--I loved that) there is a Bowden cable that appears to have
>> the 
>> spring embedded inside.  It seems as though replacing this cable
>> would 
>> solve the problem. Then again, it might be the latch that contains
>> the 
>> return spring... I haven't pulled the latch mechanism apart yet, 
>> preferring to stop here and ask for BTDTs. I am hoping it's the cable
>>
>> since I am not taking the latch apart until it warms up here. ;-)
>>
>> It looks like I would need 4A0 839 081 A. 
>>
>> Any advice appreciated! 
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Marc
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>>     
>
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