[s-cars] Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement Procedure

[Tom Green]

Cozy up to your neighbor with a warm garage, Mark.  It could be worth  
it, even if you can't stand him.  : > )  The standing on your head  
part is pain enough for
this job, especially when my ancient body doesn't recover from the  
contortions as quickly anymore.  The slave cylinder and line might  
have to wait for better
conditions if they would have to be done in the cold.

Anybody parting out a car have this flexible clutch line available to  
have rebuilt for a spare?  The little s-loop in the hard line at the  
slave is a little difficult to
duplicate because of the tight bends.

Shortly after replacing my neighbors clutch and flywheel with  
concurrent master and slave cylinder replacement, he called to say the  
clutch didn't work.  I
got him to nurse it home about 15 miles without clutch (avoid  
stoplights where possible) to find that with every clutch depression a  
fine stream of fluid
sprayed from the flexible hose.  Amazing that there was still plenty  
in the master cylinder.  Since a replacement hose was not in stock at  
the dealer and two
days away, we removed the hose and had the local hydraulic shop  
replace the rubber line for $16.  The dealer part is about $80.  It  
made me think  that I am
always checking rubber brake lines for deterioration and this line was  
ignored for 14 years.

You want to minimize the brake fluid loss and protect the carpet, and  
IIRC, you can push the clip off with a small flat blade screwdriver as  
long as you don't
push it off into parts unknown.  There are lots of hiding places for  
small parts down there even when well lit.

Tom

On Nov 18, 2008, at 7:22 AM, Mark Turczyn wrote:

>
> Tom-
>
> I just went and ordered a new MC.  When I got home of course I found  
> that I had a new one on  the shelf since I have always bought  and  
> shelved all of the suspect parts that anyone talks about on the  
> list.  Interest for me—the NOS A90 slave cylinder I have on the self  
> is the same one used in the S6-
>
> So I am not going to rebuild- although if it is cheap I may try it  
> with the one I take out.   I think the only hesitation I would have  
> is that if it is a pain to replace the MC I would not like to take a  
> chance that the rebuild kit may not work.  If I do it this time and  
> it goes fast (in this freezing weather) I may try it in the future  
> since my bolt is still good on the one that is leaking—cannot have  
> too many spares.
>
>
> I pulled the lower bolster and the plastic heat distribution pipe  
> out last night to take a look.  Still not sure how you pull the clip  
> on the pin on the left side.  I guess once you pull out the vacuum  
> switch you have the room to pull the clip---pretty tight down there.
>
> I got the super glue to tack the clevis pin to a long bolt for the  
> reinsertion.  Any other tricks come to mind?
>
>
>
>
>
> On 11/17/08 3:55 PM, "Tom Green" <trgreen at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>>>
>> Mark,
>> I've been intrigued by this offer for a rebuild kit.  I wish  
>> someone would verify it.  I
>> may have to do so since it is cheap.  I have no faith in this  
>> catalog without being able to
>> see and touch the actual part.
>>
>> 1995 AUDI S6 Clutch Master Cylinder Repair Kit <http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1009370&amp;parttype=2000 
>> >
>>
>> These guys seem to have the cheapest price for a cylinder showing  
>> the correct part.
>> It depends on when you intend to change the cylinder.  Some free  
>> shipping offers
>> might result in a lower total price, or express costs vary a lot.
>>
>> http://www.stopshopanddrive.com/products/1995/audi/s6/clutch/clutch_master_cylinder.html
>>
>> http://www.epmtuned.com/id200.html
>>
>> I wouldn't  worry about the rod if the clutch is not getting  
>> stiff.  It is not too difficult to change
>> if you are good at working under the dash.  : > )
>>
>> Changing the slave and the flexible line between the two is a good  
>> idea.  If you have the
>> time, rebuilding the line is much cheaper ( it uses brake line  
>> parts).
>>
>> Getting the brake fluid out of the carpet may be the hardest part.   
>> Don't wear your best
>> shoes if you continue to drive with it leaking, and watch for  
>> slippery soles on the pedals.
>>
>> Tom
>>
>>
>>> Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008
>>> From: Mark Turczyn <mkturczyn at verizon.net>
>>> Subject: Re: [s-cars] Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement Procedure
>>> To: David Forgie <forgied at shaw.ca>, s-car-list
>>> <s-car-list at audifans.com>
>>> Message-ID: <C547045A.8BE4%mkturczyn at verizon.net>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
>>>
>>> Dave and all-
>>>
>>> Most parts places seem to offer four brands?Sachs, ATE, FTE, and  
>>> BA  at $95.
>>> Blau just has ?German supplier? for $135
>>>
>>> I know many are built in China- I just do not want a leaker so do  
>>> anyone
>>> have advice on which is my best bet for being as good as my  
>>> original that
>>> lasted all these years?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 11/17/08 9:58 AM, "David Forgie" <forgied at shaw.ca> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Fred Munro's excellent procedure is available as a pdf at S- 
>>>> cars.org:
>>>>
>>>> http://s-cars.org/postnuke/downloads/pdf/AudiUrS4ClutchMasterCylinderReplaceme
>>>> nt.pdf
>>>>
>>>> (Found by looking through the AudiWorld FAQ for the S-cars.org  
>>>> DIY link):
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.audiworld.com/s4s6/msgs/149966.phtml
>>>>
>>>> Dave F.
>>
>>
>