[s-cars] Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement Procedure

Tom Green trgreen at comcast.net
Tue Nov 18 07:25:53 PST 2008 

Mark,

I was referring to the flexible part of the line between the clutch  
master and slave cylinders.  The supply line doesn't see any pressure,  
so unless it is
torn or obviously deteriorated I would not be concerned.  It looks  
like the same hose that BMW sedans used in the '70's to connect  
reservoir to brake M/C that
are still in service.  The line that connects clutch master to slave  
is a pressure line made in two pieces of brake line parts with the  
connector at the frame rail.
You will recognize the fine threads on the hard line flare connections  
at the clutch master or slave cylinder as identical to brake line  
connectors from the many
turns required to remove/install the line.  Use same precautions-- 
don't cross-thread.

Tom

On Nov 18, 2008, at 9:44 AM, Mark Turczyn wrote:

> Tom-
>
> I have not even thought about the flex line— I assume you mean the  
> supply line.  In a pinch I go to a BMW shop and buy the blue core  
> rubber brake hose that was used on the K series bikes.  They are  
> about 12-13” long.  Would this be long enough?
>
>
> On 11/18/08 9:26 AM, "Tom Green" <trgreen at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Cozy up to your neighbor with a warm garage, Mark.  It could be  
>> worth it, even if you can't stand him.  : > )  The standing on your  
>> head part is pain enough for
>> this job, especially when my ancient body doesn't recover from the  
>> contortions as quickly anymore.  The slave cylinder and line might  
>> have to wait for better
>> conditions if they would have to be done in the cold.
>>
>> Anybody parting out a car have this flexible clutch line available  
>> to have rebuilt for a spare?  The little s-loop in the hard line at  
>> the slave is a little difficult to
>> duplicate because of the tight bends.
>>
>> Shortly after replacing my neighbors clutch and flywheel with  
>> concurrent master and slave cylinder replacement, he called to say  
>> the clutch didn't work.  I
>> got him to nurse it home about 15 miles without clutch (avoid  
>> stoplights where possible) to find that with every clutch  
>> depression a fine stream of fluid
>> sprayed from the flexible hose.  Amazing that there was still  
>> plenty in the master cylinder.  Since a replacement hose was not in  
>> stock at the dealer and two
>> days away, we removed the hose and had the local hydraulic shop  
>> replace the rubber line for $16.  The dealer part is about $80.  It  
>> made me think  that I am
>> always checking rubber brake lines for deterioration and this line  
>> was ignored for 14 years.
>>
>> You want to minimize the brake fluid loss and protect the carpet,  
>> and IIRC, you can push the clip off with a small flat blade  
>> screwdriver as long as you don't
>> push it off into parts unknown.  There are lots of hiding places  
>> for small parts down there even when well lit.
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> On Nov 18, 2008, at 7:22 AM, Mark Turczyn wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>  Tom-
>>>
>>>  I just went and ordered a new MC.  When I got home of course I  
>>> found that I had a new one on  the shelf since I have always  
>>> bought  and shelved all of the suspect parts that anyone talks  
>>> about on the list.  Interest for me—the NOS A90 slave cylinder I  
>>> have on the self is the same one used in the S6-
>>>
>>>  So I am not going to rebuild- although if it is cheap I may try  
>>> it with the one I take out.   I think the only hesitation I would  
>>> have is that if it is a pain to replace the MC I would not like to  
>>> take a chance that the rebuild kit may not work.  If I do it this  
>>> time and it goes fast (in this freezing weather) I may try it in  
>>> the future since my bolt is still good on the one that is leaking— 
>>> cannot have too many spares.
>>>
>>>
>>>  I pulled the lower bolster and the plastic heat distribution pipe  
>>> out last night to take a look.  Still not sure how you pull the  
>>> clip on the pin on the left side.  I guess once you pull out the  
>>> vacuum switch you have the room to pull the clip---pretty tight  
>>> down there.
>>>
>>>  I got the super glue to tack the clevis pin to a long bolt for  
>>> the reinsertion.  Any other tricks come to mind?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  On 11/17/08 3:55 PM, "Tom Green" <trgreen at comcast.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> Mark,
>>>>  I've been intrigued by this offer for a rebuild kit.  I wish  
>>>> someone would verify it.  I
>>>>  may have to do so since it is cheap.  I have no faith in this  
>>>> catalog without being able to
>>>>  see and touch the actual part.
>>>>
>>>>  1995 AUDI S6 Clutch Master Cylinder Repair Kit <http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1009370&amp;parttype=2000 
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>>  These guys seem to have the cheapest price for a cylinder  
>>>> showing the correct part.
>>>>  It depends on when you intend to change the cylinder.  Some free  
>>>> shipping offers
>>>>  might result in a lower total price, or express costs vary a lot.
>>>>
>>>>  http://www.stopshopanddrive.com/products/1995/audi/s6/clutch/clutch_master_cylinder.html
>>>>
>>>>  http://www.epmtuned.com/id200.html
>>>>
>>>>  I wouldn't  worry about the rod if the clutch is not getting  
>>>> stiff.  It is not too difficult to change
>>>>  if you are good at working under the dash.  : > )
>>>>
>>>>  Changing the slave and the flexible line between the two is a  
>>>> good idea.  If you have the
>>>>  time, rebuilding the line is much cheaper ( it uses brake line  
>>>> parts).
>>>>
>>>>  Getting the brake fluid out of the carpet may be the hardest  
>>>> part.  Don't wear your best
>>>>  shoes if you continue to drive with it leaking, and watch for  
>>>> slippery soles on the pedals.
>>>>
>>>>  Tom
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008
>>>>>  From: Mark Turczyn <mkturczyn at verizon.net>
>>>>>  Subject: Re: [s-cars] Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement  
>>>>> Procedure
>>>>>  To: David Forgie <forgied at shaw.ca>, s-car-list
>>>>>  <s-car-list at audifans.com>
>>>>>  Message-ID: <C547045A.8BE4%mkturczyn at verizon.net>
>>>>>  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
>>>>>
>>>>>  Dave and all-
>>>>>
>>>>>  Most parts places seem to offer four brands?Sachs, ATE, FTE,  
>>>>> and BA  at $95.
>>>>>  Blau just has ?German supplier? for $135
>>>>>
>>>>>  I know many are built in China- I just do not want a leaker so  
>>>>> do anyone
>>>>>  have advice on which is my best bet for being as good as my  
>>>>> original that
>>>>>  lasted all these years?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>  On 11/17/08 9:58 AM, "David Forgie" <forgied at shaw.ca> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> Fred Munro's excellent procedure is available as a pdf at S- 
>>>>>> cars.org:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>  http://s-cars.org/postnuke/downloads/pdf/AudiUrS4ClutchMasterCylinderReplaceme
>>>>>>  nt.pdf
>>>>>>
>>>>>>  (Found by looking through the AudiWorld FAQ for the S-cars.org  
>>>>>> DIY link):
>>>>>>
>>>>>>  http://forums.audiworld.com/s4s6/msgs/149966.phtml
>>>>>>
>>>>>>  Dave F.
>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>

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