[s-cars] removing injectors/new seals

[Eric Phillips]

I dunno what the filter spec is.  They are cheap, and easy to do, so I
guess I wouldn't hesitate doing them every 30k.  I forgot the way I
made sure the pressure was out of the system, so I didn't get sprayed
with gas - I pulled the fuse on the driver's side of the dash for the
fuel pump while the car was running.  It only dribbled out, and not
much even then.

I used engine oil because that's one of the things I've heard is used.
 I would ASSume that petroleum-based lubes would work, since those
seals get gas on them.   I have heard of folks using gasoline as a
lube, too.

On Thu, Sep 11, 2008 at 11:44 AM, Mike Fitton <rfitton at vt.edu> wrote:
> Comments on the comments:
>
> 1. Yeah, filter's a good idea at the same time if you're due.  Technically I
> am due, but the o-rings came before the filter did and it's been months
> since I really worked on my car so I'm getting all antsy in the pantsy.
> What's spec on the fuel filter, 30k or 60k?
>
> 2. Sure must be nice to still have a bellypan.  :-)  Wasn't someone here
> going to develop a polycarbonate replica with NACA ducting whose purpose to
> be determined?  Oh right, that was me...  Yeah, I'm workin on it.
>
> 3. Wasn't sure about lubing the o-rings first.  Definitely contemplated it,
> but was worried about material composition, breakdown, et cetera.  It's not
> like an oil filter...these guys are expected to go 100k miles minimum.  Love
> to hear some sciency discussion on that.
>
> -Cheers!
> Mike
>
> Eric Phillips wrote:
>
> Mike, Erik,
> I took mine out and sent them to Witchhunter in Belleview, WA.  They
> replaced the seals and the caps for $100 plus shipping.  In addition
> to Mike's comments, I'll add these:
> 1.)  If you're going to open up the fuel system, why not replace the
> filter?  That's right there, and an easy job.
> 2.)  Do NOT drop the metal clips.  Then you have to pull the tray,
> etc.  Much easier to make sure you have a good grip on them.  As an
> aside, I regularly pull the tray each and every time I work in the
> engine bay.  I always drop a tool or fastener when I am doing work up
> top, so to save myself the headache of having to pull the tray with
> the wheels on the floor, I pre-empt myself.  :)
> 3.)  Lube the o-rings before you insert the injectors into the head.
> Witchhunter said to use any petrolum-based lube, but I just used a
> very, very small amount of motor oil.  Right off the dipstick,
> actually.
> HTH,
> Eric
>
>
> Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 12:40:02 -0400
> From: Mike Fitton <rfitton at vt.edu>
> Subject: Re: [s-cars] removing injectors/new seals
> I just did this two weekends ago...made a world of difference.  The p/n
> for the seals is 035 906 149 A and you'll need 10 of them.
> It's a pretty straightforward job.  Unplug the injectors, pop them out
> of the intake manifold, back off the little clips that secure them to
> the rail, and pop them out of the rail.  Note the exact orientation of
> the metal clips as I had some difficulty figuring out exactly how far
> into the rail the injectors should go before the clips go back into the
> right place.  Have rags on hand to soak up any fuel that drips out...I
> didn't go to any effort to evacuate the rail first, but it wasn't all
> that much fuel.  Be careful with the part of the injector that secures
> the o-rings, especially on the number 4 and 5 injectors.  They get
> baked, become brittle, and are prone to damage.  I recommend cutting the
> old o-rings off rather than trying to bring them over the lip intact.
> Installation is reverse of removal.  The new o-rings will be way
> tighter, so I used I few taps with a rubber mallet to seat everything
> before bolting down.  Fire it up (it'll take a few turns to fill the
> rail back up) and check for seepage.  Also, I spent some time in the
> inlet ports with rags, q-tips, and throttle cleaner...never hurts to
> clean something while you're in there.
> -Cheers!
> Mike
> Erik Addy wrote:
>
>
> Going on vacation next week and thinking of having my injectors (mit 160k+
> on them) out to be cleaned.
> Any tricks to removing them?  Anyone know the p/n's I would need for new
> seals on reinstallation?