[s-cars] Vacuum leak

djdawson2 at aol.com djdawson2 at aol.com
Sat Dec 12 23:10:43 PST 2009


 I get it... this is just a joke.  You're trying to sound as ignorant as possible just to get us wound up?

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Cory Pio <cpio921 at gmail.com>
To: Taka Mizutani <t44tqtro at gmail.com>; s-car-list at audifans.com <s-car-list at audifans.com>
Sent: Sat, Dec 12, 2009 9:21 pm
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Vacuum leak


Yeah if a Honda 1.8 can spool a big truck motor turbo around 4k to  
20psi+ than idk. The hx35 and he351cw both out spool and out flow  
gt30r and gt35r. The hx35 flow about 60 lb/min and the other a little  
less. I want to do most of the parts (supporting mods) you mentioned  
before than hipefully the manifold and my 250 dollar gt35r will have  
popped up by than. You should check out the compressor map on dsm  
tuners or a cummins forum. The plan is to run low boost on the big  
turbo for awhile with a nice flowing head. These are my tentative  
plans. Step 1 is doing what you mentioned to track down this boost  
issue. Than standalone and fuel system. Than turbo manifold and  
headwork. I don't see any reason to open up the block until I break  
some rods.

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 12, 2009, at 10:58 PM, Taka Mizutani <t44tqtro at gmail.com> wrote:

> Boost issues can also be caused by leaks from the intercooler end  
> caps, leaks from the hoses connecting the intake plumbing, bad  
> bypass valve, tear in the wastegate diaphragm, the vacuum leaks you  
> mentioned. Also issues with the throttle position sensor, N75 valve,  
> spark plugs, plug boots, ignition coils, fuel pump relay, fuel pump,  
> etc.
>
> You better get that sorted out before you start messing with turbos-  
> you could easily burn up whatever money you're planning on using for  
> a turbo swap by fixing what's wrong with your car.
>
> I also don't know where you're getting those prices- RS2 turbos are  
> 1600+, manifolds are closer to 1000 and you still need injectors,  
> software, etc.
>
> The Holset turbo you're talking about- is it watercooled or just oil  
> cooled? You're not planning on running a diesel truck turbo on your  
> car, are you? What hp/tq figures are you looking for? I wouldn't run  
> anything much larger than an RS2 on a basically stock AAN- not  
> enough displacement to push a big turbo- you'll have massive lag and  
> a car that's really crappy to drive. If you're going for big power,  
> you need to talk to Dave Dawson, Hap and Rod Haney- they've BTDT to  
> some stunning numbers.
>
> Taka
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 10:17 PM, Cory Pio <cpio921 at gmail.com> wrote:
> My car is far from a mess just trying to figure out source to my low  
> vac and if that could be causig weird part throttle boost issues. I  
> will be studing my bentley and attacking the t connection, moisture  
> trap behind head and also redoing the area by the wastegate n75 and  
> the line that goes into a hard line across the head. It still holds  
> 20psi.
>
> I also think building my own equal length manifold with a burns  
> collector and slapping a t3 flange on there so I can run a holset  
> that performs as well as Garrett bb turbos with better spool and  
> flow is a good idea. I like that option better than an rs2 turbo for  
> 1000 and an rs2 manifold for 600 and some chip tune for 500. I  
> should have the turbo and collector before Christmas. I'll have to  
> ge some pictures up on here.
>
>  thanks for the tip on the ether spraying looking for vacuum leaks  
> atleast I'll have something to take my mind off it being cold as  
> hell. I only take the hour trip to my buddies heated garage for  
> things like redoing my suspension which is rapidly approaching and  
> should competely sort my rattles out. Hope that goes as well as the  
> timing belt.
>
> Everyone have a good night
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 12, 2009, at 10:01 PM, Taka Mizutani <t44tqtro at gmail.com>  
> wrote:
>
>> I'm just saying if you have a mess of a car like the OP, you should  
>> prioritize getting everything running right before doing anything  
>> else.
>>
>> And buying an UrS to "keep up with STis and Evos" sounds like a bad  
>> idea. Most anything with a big engine can destroy STis and Evos in  
>> a straight line (GNs, Montes, Mustangs, Camaros, etc.) and an UrS  
>> has no chance of keeping up with an Evo in the twisties if the  
>> driver is good. Most people forget that the driver is the most  
>> important part of going fast. I can keep up with a lot of people in  
>> much faster cars in my Miata, given the right twisty road- most  
>> people can't drive fast in the corners, only in a straight line.
>>
>> Like Doug said, if your car is broken down all the time, the wife/ 
>> GF/etc. will object strongly and then you'll have an uphill battle  
>> just to keep the damn car.
>>
>> Taka
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 7:54 PM, Lee Levitt <lee at wheelman.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat Dec 12 18:20:37 CST 2009, Douglas Landaeta
>> <dlandaeta at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > I don't think Lee prioritized, but I do agree that reliability is
>> > very  important, if you have to walk from her on the side of the
>> > road, the  wife's gonna question all that garage time.
>>
>> Reliability is important. That's why I carry a jumper pack in my
>> '99 A6, which will kill the battery if it sits for 10 days. And a
>> couple of extra coil packs in my A4. :)
>>
>> You want *Honda* reliability...well, then, go buy a Honda. :)
>>
>> Lee
>>
>
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