[s-cars] S-CAR-List Digest, Vol 68, Issue 50

[Theodore Chen]

I also recommend heat as well.  The flare nut is normally made from aluminum or brass, both of which have higher coefficient of expansion than the steel hardline.  If you don't have a propane torch handy, get one (they're cheap).  A soldering gun or fairly high-powered soldering iron also works.





________________________________
From: Paul Heneghan <paul at heneghan.co.uk>
To: s-car-list at audifans.com
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 4:38:08 PM
Subject: Re: [s-cars] S-CAR-List Digest, Vol 68, Issue 50

I've never had a problem getting the fittings to turn (using a mixture of
penetrating fluid, flare spanners and vice grips).  The problem is usually
that the nut on the hard line has welded itself to the line.  The hose is
usually held from turning by the bracket it passes through, so you have to
turn the nut on the hard line and risk fracturing the line.  A bit of heat
from a propane torch usually breaks the bond between the nut and the line.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 15:43:43 +0000
From: "Wylie Bean" <theringmeister at triad.rr.com>
Subject: [s-cars] UrS4 brake hose swap and fluid flush

>Planning to swap all 4 rubber brake hoses for new rubber hoses and was
going to flush fluid at the same time.
>I am trying to get the rear hose off at the hard line and don't seem to be
making any progress.
>Tips?  Suggestions?  I am without a torch to heat the connection...


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