[s-cars] Stromung Exhaust Install Tips
Jerry Scott
jerryscott at wispertel.net
Sat Mar 21 09:16:44 PDT 2009
JC
Here's my Evernote file on engine mounts. Hope this helps.
Jerry Scott
So I originally asked how you could tell if your motor mounts
>were bad because I'm wondering if mine are.
>
>Reason is this, I had my trans swapped out for the EDU 6-speed (love
>it)
>and now I'm hearing a droning noise ~4k rpm and feeling a vibration
>in the floor, acc pedal, etc.
>
>Tech can't find anything loose, rubbing and commented that it felt
>the same as a Porsche 928(I think) when the motor mount failed.
>
>Anybody know anything about that, hate to buy and swap out motor
>mounts if that isn't the problem. But with 248,000 miles on the
>car it's probably not a bad idea anyway.
>
>
>Chris
Chris, it's very common for the passenger side motor mount to fail after
100k mi due to the extreme heat from the turbo. Mine was toast at 77k mi. I
can't tell you how many failed passenger side motor mounts I've seen on
S-cars. With 228k, and as far as you know it's never been replaced, I'd say
with certainty that it's probably a pile of brittle rubber bits. On the
other hand, the driver side mount seems to be rather robust, probably due to
the lack of heat cycling.
Chad Clark
chadaclark4 at msn.com
Installed both engine mounts today, not too hard, took me about 3 hours
including wrestling with the belly pan.
Driver side, easy.
The turbo side one is not that hard to get out, a long extension with a
u-joint on the end and you can reach down between the turbo and exhaust
manifold to get the top bolt. A socket will not reach the bottom nuts,
so a combo wrench is used. It would be easier with a gear wrench.
Make sure to support the engine with a floor jack under the oil pan.
Hint, after removing the hardware, jack up on the engine to lift it as
high as will go, this will give you more clearance to maneuver the
mounts out.
Shifting has improved, still not as tight as I want and the trans mounts
were done about 2 months ago.
Looks like a new snub mount is on the horizon.
Sean Douglas
quattro20v at telus.net
Actually there two different part numbers are:
443 199 379 D
443 199 379 E
There are two different mounts, each costing a different amount.
Why you ended up with two of the same mount and whether
it will make any difference I don't know.
Chris Chambers
fastscirocco_2000 at yahoo.com
Sean,
I called the local stealer, a FLAPS and Adirondack, they all state
that the 443 199 379 D is for the right and 443 199 379 E is for
the left.
Adirondack even checked in multiple "guides"
I really don't think it's going to make any difference, the mounts
look exactly the same to me. But figured you and everyone else should
know.
Chris Chambers
fastscirocco_2000 at yahoo.com
According to ETKA, they are the same, 443 199 379 D for right and left.
The E suffix is the left side without air conditioning. I also confirmed
this when I pulled out the part today, both were D suffix.
Sean Douglas
quattro20v at telus.net
I know this should be a straight forward project, but I have run up against
a stumbling block. Caveat...I have not given this the attention I should
before bothering the collective knowledge base, so an obvious "d'oh" may be
lurking.
I decided to replace the motor mounts since I had so much of the engine
compartment clear while doing an RS2 upgrade, and I figured the originals
were still on the car @ 140K. I started with the passenger side first. I
can't seem to raise the motor enough (about 2 threads short of clearing) for
the top stud on the motor mount to drop enough and clear the bracket for
removal. Not enough room to tilt the mount in any direction to clear either.
It appears that maybe I need to loosen both motor mounts and raise the motor
straight, instead of trying to tip it to one side?? Any words of wisdom??
I get to certain height, and then the whole chassis starts to raise. I
figured I might be out of lateral twist when jacking from one side only. Do
I need to remove the snub mount?
I searched Audifans FAQ, Charlie Smith's site, and S-Cars.org. Is there a
write-up out there I missed?
TIA...from the bonehead, I'm not usually this thick, S-head in NY
Regards,
TRANE
Steven Young
sryoung at trane.com
I just did this about 2 months ago. You need to undo both side and jack the
motor straight up. This will give you enough room to maneuver the mounts
out.
I think I removed the front snub mount too.
Sean Douglas
quattro20v at telus.net
the driver's side motor mount in my '92 S4 is torn. it looks like >
replacement should be pretty straightforward... right? when i changed> the
turbo recently, the passenger side motor mount appeared to be in> good
shape, so i don't plan to change it.>> anybody have the part number for the
driver side motor mount? i have> a new computer and haven't installed the
family album yet.>> -teddy chentedebearp at yahoo.comLeft engine mount for AAN
with air conditioning...443 119 379 D.Installation is extremely
straightforward.-Cheers!Mike fittonrfitton at vt.eduthanks for the info.
autohausaz.com doesn't have it, butSJMautotechnik does. think that's a good
one? the recent discussionsof low-quality parts have made me a little leery
if i can't see abrand name on the part.-teddyTim at FAP has the BOGEs for
$60. Beware of "side effects" Teddy. Have alook at relatively recent
thread started by Mark Turczyn on "drivelinechatter". Also, if I were you I
would replace both mounts. If the driver'sside is beat up I would almost
guarantee the passenger side is as well as ittakes more abuse from exhaust
heat.Mark Pollanmark.pollan at verizonbusiness.comI changed both of my mounts
in the driveway in under two hours. Itwas not a problem getting under the
turbo -- there is plenty of roomto get your wrench down there.Mark
Turczynmkturczyn at verizon.netI replaced the motor mounts a couple of years
ago. Doing the passenger sidemount might generate a few expletives but it's
not a horrible job. Got minefrom SJM. Price at the time was $125 for
both.Wayne Dohnal1994 S4wd42 at hevanet.comTeddy-I just did mine a two weeks
ago just before I found my real problemto be a dry front CV joint on my
drive shaft.The mounts are straight forward. Jack up the front and remove
theplastic tray. The left side front is out in the open so no issues.I used
a floor jack to keep the weight off of the mount. Wheninstalling the new
mount you will need to raise up the motor upanother half inch.The right
front is a tad more tricky but you can get the top boltunder the turbo from
the front of it. Once you remove the hardwareyou have to play a little bit
with the mount to get it out.The rears were very straight forward.I wish I
could tell you more but they did not require any real tricksto replace them.
I did not even remover the front wheels.Mark Turczynmkturczyn at verizon.netIt
is very easy to change the motor mounts even without pulling off thefront
end. Put the front up on jack stands or ramps. I find it easier touse jack
stands because I can pull off the wheels if I need to. For yourfirst time
I would pull the wheels so you can have more angles on the rightside to get
to the the top nut.The left is a piece of cake- just remove the nuts and
slightly lift themotor up with your floor jack-do not jack up much or you
start fighting thefront mount.The right top nut is slightly awkward so I use
one of those flat ratchetingclosed end wrenches you can buy everywhere. Mark
Turczynmkturczyn at verizon.netIf you un-bolt the snub mount from the block,
you can jack the engine upenough to replace both mounts at the same time.
Regards,TRANESteven Youngsryoung at trane.comI decided to bag the motor mounts.
I unbolted the top nuts andloosened the front snub mount and gently jacked
the engine up. Itcleared the stud on the drivers side, but not the
passenger. Plus,the engine moved forward so that I had to push the drivers
side studback to get the engine to lower back down.Damn, I was just not
comfortable putting any more force on the engine.Douglas Fifield
douglas.fifield at gmail.comI think it might help if you loosened the tranny
mount nuts(at thesubframe).. shouldnt require excessive force.Brian
Hoeftqweblog at gmail.comIf the motor mounts are original in your '92, the
right side mount will bepooched. The turbo heat bakes it hard and it shears
off. You can't tell bylooking from the outside, but it will likely come off
in two parts when youremove it.Rear suspension creaks are usually the heim
ends in the upper track links.The half-price aftermarket links will last 1-2
years; you'll get 5 years orso out of the OEM links. The OEM heim ends have
a Teflon liner; theaftermarket are steel on steel.HTHFred Munro
munrof at sympatico.caUsing the lower of the two durometer rubber mounts that
034MS sells. Love em, except some days I wish I'd gotten the higher
durometer.-Cheers!Mike Fitton rfitton at vt.edu
----- Original Message -----
From: "JC" <jc at j2c3.com>
To: "'Scott Justusson'" <qshipq at aol.com>; <s-car-list at audifans.com>
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 6:35 PM
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Stromung Exhaust Install Tips
> Thanks for the tips Scott. Might need to have a closer look at motor
> mounts
> when I get back home.
>
> Any particular notes for 1. motor mount evaluation, and 2. replacement
> procedure issues?
>
> Also, I've done no searching on this so if its all been covered just give
> me
> the STFU-STFA-n00b.
>
>> The right side motor mount failure can cause excessive
>> torque-over of the engine, which leverages the turbo/DP
>> connection against the first hanger (at the trans). After
>
>
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