[s-cars] Fuel Line Leak Update II

[airbil]

Well butofcourse it's never ez with an old S.
Started out well if not great with autozone having the hard lines,  
connectors and free use of a flare tool and bend tool.  I had decide  
to do the inner and outer lines since they were badly corroded from  
the back to the front as far as I could see.
However
After I got it all back together and started up, a new leak opened up  
in front ... In front of the trans support brace... whicih I hadn't  
even seen.
This was no doubt due to moving the old lines around when cutting and  
tightening and I didn't see these other corroded sections upfront.
So it's almost back to square one.
Oh, and of couse abou 3gals. Of fuel drained out when first pulled the  
lines out of the brackets .
Thanks for all the tips!
This is another of those not if, but when breakdowns.
And that's the way it is.
Bill~makin a superfund site~M


                  ~ via airmobil ~

On Nov 22, 2009, at 10:20 AM, Joshua van Tol <josh at spiny.com> wrote:

> You want to use steel for fuel lines. Copper reacts with some of the  
> compounds in modern gasoline and can cause contamination of the fuel  
> system. Also, it has poor fatigue characteristics, and can crack if  
> subjected to the high vibration environment of a car.
>
> NAPA, and presumably other vendors sell lengths of 5/16" steel  
> tubing that works very well for fuel line replacement. It's pretty  
> reasonably priced if I remember correctly.
>
>
> On Nov 21, 2009, at 11:02 PM, mike schowengerdt wrote:
>
>> bill, i have been following this thread and cannot believe no one  
>> has suggested what i have been using for years to fix damaged fuel  
>> lines, and that is standard compression fittings from the hardware  
>> store
>>
>> i believe 5/16" is the correct size for this.......i usually  
>> canibalize another car for good steel line to use but i don't know  
>> why you couldn't use copper tube from the hardware store as well
>>
>> the compression fitting splice consists of a center piece and two  
>> compression rings and two cap nuts all made of brass..........this  
>> all makes for a more durable repair than hose in my opinion
>>
>> the stainless band clamps are a wrap and clip type that are a chore  
>> to release (i use a pocket size awl and screw driver).......once  
>> that is released the rubber is split and just opens up to release  
>> the line
>>
>> don't forget to pick up a mini tubing cutter at the hardware store  
>> as well
>>
>> HTH............mike...>fixin audis in kc for 25+yrs
>>                                >drivin '93 urS w/2871gt  RS2+
>>
>>