[s-cars] Turbo to Exhaust manifold studs
John Cody Forbes
cody at 5000tq.com
Sat Oct 9 14:42:20 PDT 2010
You need to thread the stud in by means much more powerful than your fingers. The usual method is to put two spare non-locking nuts on it and lock them together. Then you can thread it in with a wrench and remove the nuts when done.
-Cody (mobile)
On Oct 9, 2010, at 3:17 PM, <manuelsanchez at starpower.net> wrote:
> Brian,
>
> It's one of the top studs, closest to the front/radiator. I can get to it from underneath, after removing the horn assembly.
>
> It's possible I did not receive the correct part, the stud I have is 1-1/2 inches (38mm) in overall length. The shortest part of the threaded portion is 1/2" (13mm) in length before it reaches the non threaded shoulder.
>
> When I insert the stub finger tight, it sticks out further than the other three. I just don't know if it's the correct stud length, but I am unable to thread it enough, or if I have it threaded in all the way but it's overall length is too long. I don't want to cut it for fear that if it is the correct overall length then I've boogered the only spare I have.
>
> Here's hoping someone knows the proper stud length for a RS2 turbo to RS2 Exhaust Manifold length.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Regards,
>
> Manny
> 95.5 urS6 Avant
>
> It would be great to know what the
>
> ---- Original message ----
>> Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2010 14:10:28 -0400
>> From: brian hoeft <qweblog at gmail.com>
>> Subject: Re: [s-cars] Turbo to Exhaust manifold studs
>> To: manuelsanchez at starpower.net
>> Cc: s-car-list at audifans.com
>>
>> Hi Manny,
>>
>> I thought those studs (or just the last ones I
>> replaced) were all threaded shank but generally the
>> shorter, threaded section of studs go into the
>> internally threaded section of whatever, leaving the
>> longer threaded section for the attachment (in this
>> case a turbo) and lock nuts.
>>
>> As for the lock nuts, they are just that, lock nuts,
>> and wont thread past a few threads because that's
>> how it deforms while locking into place.
>>
>> Hopefully it was one of the 2 lower studs, otherwise
>> its gona be a bit difficult to turn them in snug.
>> Snug for these, for me, is turning them till they
>> stop with a good amount of wrist strength, not
>> forearm tight. But if you are using the 2 nut
>> method, it will only allow so much before they spin
>> together, thats usually tight enough. And I still
>> use thread sealer..
>>
>> -Brian
>>
>> .
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 9, 2010 at 12:21 PM,
>> <manuelsanchez at starpower.net> wrote:
>>
>> Fellow S-heads,
>>
>> One of the 4 turbo to exhaust manifold studs has
>> worked its way out. I have a new replacement in
>> hand but wanted to confirm with those wiser than
>> me that the end of the stud that goes in first is
>> the end that is closer to the unthreaded
>> "shoulder". This untrheaded portion looks like
>> that small section of worm thats a bit thicker
>> than the rest of it.
>>
>> Never having installed one of these I was
>> wondering what the orientation should be and how
>> far in the stud should thread into the exhaust
>> manifold before I know its in far enough. It does
>> not seem to bite into too many threads before I
>> stop threading it in by hand...wondering if this
>> is normal.
>>
>> The copper nut also seems to only thread onto the
>> stud for a short portion when threading by hand. I
>> was also wondering if that is by design, so that
>> when I put a wrench on it finally the nut will
>> thread the stud further into the manifold.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Manny (95.5 urS6 - front suspension finally
>> installed)
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>> http://208.53.138.125:8068/
>> [blinders off&earplugs out]
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