[s-cars] POS testing procedure
JC
jc at j2c3.com
Thu Sep 2 16:59:39 PDT 2010
Wylie - you mean un-clipping the black housing on the coil? They don't
remove although A. it looks like they should, and B. it would be a G0LDAMN
MILLION TIMES EASIER if they did... I tried on a known crappy one to get it
off once to no avail, I think it's perma-bonded on there at the factory.
AFAIK the standard procedure is resplicing wire if necessary, but gentle
releasing the metal prongs from the connectors to thread the wires back out
if not.
RE: POS mounting, hit the back of the screws with the PB. Use the best
screwdriver you have with a nice sharp tip. I sometimes use an old impact
driver I have for stuff like that since the tips are hardened and don't get
chewed up. Mine were mounted with nuts on the back and I had to use needle
nose vice grips back there, but not sure if that's the OEM system or not?
FWIW and only tangentially related, I am now running my POS's mounted to
little finned aluminum heatsinks, and have them tucked up behind the factory
mount, more or less using it as a shelf for them. I also hacked up a little
alu heat shield out of aluminum flashing which is riveted to the OEM bolt
holes. All to keep the POS cooler. Uncle Bob scoffed at me last week but I
think the stock mounting system is more of a heat-delivery system than a
heat-sinking system when things are all running at max temps.
JC
>
> Another question I had was the clips that hold the wiring
> harness to the coils themselves are very brittle and started
> to crumble when I attempted to remove them. It looks like a
> pretty tight fit so I don't know how imperative it is to have
> those little clips intact, but I didn't risk it. Collective
> wisdom on this?
>
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