[s-cars] HID install weirdness

[Tom Green]

The bulb autocheck surgery was designed to counter the effects of  
relaying high
watt euro headlamp installations.  Relays were required for the high  
current
involved in those halogen installations and always produced a bulb out  
warning
because the current draw between headlamps could not be compared when  
the
current had a different path through the relays.

This tells me that relaying the lights is guaranteed to produce a bulb  
out warning,
not cure one.  I agree that bulb out warnings are common if 10% of the  
installs
having problems is defined as common.  It is by no means a problem  
with a majority
of HID installations.  You have to remember that only the problems get  
the press
here just like TV news coverage.  When you are the one having  
problems, the
absolute numbers don't really matter, other than finding the cause can  
be more
difficult if it does not occur every time.

I don't know anything about the kit you installed, Peter, but the  
newer kits with the
digital ballasts advertise lower starting current draw, and of course,  
the steady-state
current is very low with either type.  Since you were having some  
headlight problems
before the install, I suspect the contacts in the stalk are causing  
some of your issues,
but not all.  If the autocheck is sensing a difference in resistance  
between bulbs
sometimes, I would recheck the wiring and make sure all the  
connections are good.
I believe you are destined for a stalk replacement soon even though  
you have
reduced the current load.

You have not mentioned cleaning the headlight assembly or replacing  
the glass
covers.  I have seen a quantum leap in lighting on the road with these  
two jobs
added to the HID install.

Tom '95 S6
          '95.5 S6 avant
Knoxville, TN

On Monday July 4, 2011, at 2:03 PM, Peter Schulz  
<p.schulz at verizon.net>  wrote:

> Back after 8 days and 2300 miles of relatively event-free family  
> vacation
> (Holiday Roaaaaaad for you Chevy Chase fans) in the Silver Avant.
>
>
> Before we left I finally installed the 35 W Diverted Motorsports  
> 4300K 9006
> HID kit that my oldest son won at S-Fest last year. Additionally I  
> decided
> to replace the ignition switch which last year had caused some weird
> electrical behaviors (sometimes no headlights, sometimes no CC, but  
> only
> over a few hot days.) of course the old switch showed the tell tale  
> crack in
> the housing by the return spring.
>
> Then I tacked the HID install. I followed the included directions  
> and am
> very happy with the improvement in light output. So much so that I  
> want to
> put HIDs in the Mrs' avant too.
>
> But, am getting the bulb out warning, sometimes repeatedly, and when  
> I put
> the lights on, my tachometer reading goes to 0rpm momentarily then  
> back to
> its normal reading.
> Not noticing and other instrument cluster weirdness.
>
> Has anyone experienced similar behavior after the HID install, or  
> did I mess
> something up with the instrument cluster. (yes I disconnected the  
> battery
> when replacing the ignition switch)
>
> Do I need to get an HID kit with a separate relay?
>
>
> -Peter Schulz
> Chelmsford Ma, USA
> http://www.naaclub.org/
>
> 1995.5 S6 Avant Emerald/Ecru
> 1995.5 S6 Avant Silver/Platinum
> 1991 90Q 20v Q Red
> 1991 90Q 20v Indigo
> 1991 CQ silver  (eS2 recipient)

On Tuesday July 5 2011, at 7:29 AM  "JC" <jc at j2c3.com> responded

> Peter -
>
> Totally common symptoms from an HID install.
>
> Re: The tach - they suck a shipload of current on startup which  
> sometimes
> seems to drop the system voltage for a second causing the IC to have a
> brainfart. What seems to help is a new and preferrably uprated 14.5  
> or 15v
> voltage regulator in your alternator. That seemed to stop it for me  
> and also
> solved my LS2 coil incompatibility.
>
> The boobcheck is a different story and less of  a conclusive solution.
> Happens to the majority of HID converters it seems - not right away  
> usually
> but after some time. From this I am purty shure that the increased  
> current
> somehow burns out something in the autocheck.  I "solved" it for a  
> while by
> replacing my autocheck but the junkyard replacement lasted about 4  
> months
> and then started going off again. So the new "solution" has been  
> autocheck
> disable by my QW documented pin-bending technique which is not ideal  
> as I
> kinda like knowing if my bulbs are all working or not without  
> wandering
> around the car in the dark periodically.
>
> I bet a box of belgian beer that relaying would truly solve both  
> problems as
> it would insulate the bulbcheck and IC from the 'unusual' HID  
> current loads
> (aka very high at start then low while running). You still may need to
> replace your autocheck relay after relaying if its been too damaged,  
> or
> perhaps under the lighter, more consistent loading of the relay it  
> will
> still work, I don't know..
>
> JC