[s-cars] Stripped wheel bolt

[Tom Green]

That's good advice as always, Scott, but I see no reason to  
shout.  : )  I am confident that the 4 remaining good bolts and hub- 
centric wheel installation will remain with the vehicle if properly  
installed;  And, if not, 5 bolts will be little better.

I expect that Lee will abandon any thoughts of completing this repair  
once he finds the price of the repair kit necessary for a DIY job, and  
he doesn't use the kind of hack shop that might do this sort of thing  
either.  I think we will see Lee chase the threads with a tap and then  
after removing the oil, evaluate whether the repair is successful, and  
in the future, attempt to monitor any tire/wheel work to ensure monkey  
boy doesn't start the bolts and run them in with one shot of the  
impact wrench/torque stick while lowering the car with the other  
hand.  : )

This kind of problem can happen anytime someone gets in a hurry .  NE  
is not kind to wheel and suspension parts, so always take the time to  
clean up the wheel bolts when you have a wheel off, Lee.

Tom '95 S6
          '95.5 S6 avant
Knoxville, TN

On Monday March 26, 2012, at 10:09 AM, Scott Justusson  
<qshipq at aol.com> wrote:

> Ok, I'll jump in from the back of the class.... DO NOT TIMESERT OR  
> HELICOIL WHEEL HUBS....  That's the craziest thing I've read here in  
> a while.  If the thread is damaged enough to require more attention  
> than a tap thread chase, it's time to replace the hub.  I can't  
> think of a shop that would even consider thread-repairing a hub with  
> an insert, for good reason.  Accepting liability for that repair  
> failing is plain negligence.  Further, my concern would be a insert  
> coming out with a wheel bolt, destroying the wheel before you  
> realized what happened.
>
> Neither works better for this application, it's just the wrong  
> application.  When that DIY hack fails as the wheel passes you on  
> the highway, expect the consequential liability to be all yours.
>
> My .02
>
> Scott J
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cody Forbes <cody at 5000tq.com>
> To: Taka Mizutani <t44tqtro at gmail.com>
> Cc: mtgadbois <mtgadbois at aol.com>; s-car-list <s-car- 
> list at audifans.com>
> Sent: Sat, Mar 24, 2012 6:51 pm
> Subject: Re: [s-cars] Stripped wheel bolt
>
>
> Since a time-cert locks in place by expanding the bottom thread or  
> two I can't
> be certain it will work in the shallow environment of a hub. Check  
> depth of the
> hub and timecert before use.
>
> -Cody
> (Sent from my phone, if a word doesn't fit blame Siri)
>
> On Mar 24, 2012, at 7:21 PM, Taka Mizutani <t44tqtro at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Time-sert, not helicoil- they work better
>> On Mar 24, 2012 7:02 PM, "Larry" <larrycleung at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Lee,
>>>
>>> I'm on the tap brigade as well. Nothing to lose (besides, having  
>>> that tap
>>> is a useful thing anyway). Just use a fresh lug bolt afterwards.   
>>> And, when
>>> starting the tap, gently turn backwards until you feel the the  
>>> first tap
>>> threads drop into the hub threads. Then start feeding the tap  
>>> forwards, 1/2
>>> turn at a time, backing  slightly after each half turn. Oil will  
>>> work
>>> (thinner is better, you want it to flush cuttings)  cutting oil  
>>> cleans up
>>> easier, that's all. This worked for me most times sine HS for most  
>>> bolts,
>>> including for my former Solo 2 GTi's lug holes. If worse comes to  
>>> worst,
>>> then there is still TimeSert or HeliCoil.
>>>
>>>
>>> All from HS shop class, and yet they're killing those programs  
>>> everywhere..
>>> Doesn't make sense to me.