[s-cars] ABS issue (or memory loss)

[Douglas Landaeta]

Yep, I tested the sensor and saw a fluctuating impedance on the flukemeter, so now I'm suspecting the controller.
So the rear torsen is NOT an affecting mod to the ABS system.



> On Jan 22, 2015, at 12:22 PM, Joshua Van Tol <josh at spiny.com> wrote:
> 
> The ablative caps are only for the older (1988 and older) cars. Newer ones use a self spacing design, where you're supposed to push it all the way home, and then it springs back the required amount I think.
> 
> Josh
> 
> On Thu, Jan 22, 2015 at 11:34 AM, Robert Myers <bob.myers25840 at gmail.com <mailto:bob.myers25840 at gmail.com>> wrote:
> Doug,
> 
> Again from Alzheimer's-land...
> 
> IIRC, the function of the wheel speed sensors can be effected by seating depth.  I'd suggest pulling the likely offending sensor and cleaning out the socket before resetting the sensor back in its hole.  There are small plastic ablative caps to aid in getting the depth right if you can find them.
> 
> RE:wise guys comment:  You do know why they don't send donkeys to college, dontcha?  Nobody likes a smart-ass.  ;-)
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> On 1/22/2015 11:10 AM, Douglas Landaeta wrote:
> Old (wise) guys,
> 
> Okay, maybe I'm all brain dead about my ABS situation. About 10 years ago I had a nice A8 rear torsen installed by Tim and the good folks at Northern Automotive (Concord, NH). Fast forward through some years and past a small fire incident about the battery area and a VAG-com code for a bad RR wheel speed sensor, probably because of the wiring, and this is what I have. Still have the ABS light bulb pulled from the dash (which I did after the battery fire). Long ago I cleaned up and rewired everything in that area under the rear seat. I re-seated and tested the wheel speed sensor as good and reset all codes (now that I finally upgraded to USB-based VCDS).
> 
> My ABS is still not working. Did I just forget that the rear torsen would permanently disable the ABS or could the ABS controller be bad?
> 
> Ponder with me.
> Doug
> 
> 
> Sent from my mobile
> 
> On Jan 22, 2015, at 9:31 AM, Robert Myers <bob.myers25840 at gmail.com <mailto:bob.myers25840 at gmail.com>> wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks, Ian.  Advancing Alzheimer's dontchaknow. :-(
> 
> Bob
> 
> On 1/21/2015 6:14 PM, Ian Duff wrote:
> Your memory is fine! Gently pry off the wood panel, and the rest is obvious.
> 
> Seems to me there's a recommendation to use bulbs other than 1:1 replacement, like the ones in there are 1w and to replace with 2w, or I may have it backwards, or confused with the instrument cluster.
> 
> -Ian Duff, sent from my mobile, please excuse the brevity, spelling and punctuation.
> 
> On Jan 21, 2015, at 17:54, Robert Myers <bob.myers25840 at gmail.com <mailto:bob.myers25840 at gmail.com>> wrote:
> 
> 
> The back light for the blower speed screen (right half of the double HVAC screen) in my 95.5 urS6 is out.  I'm pretty sure it's just a dead light bulb.  It's been a LOOOOOng time since I went in there for anything and I have forgotten he exact procedure for replacing those lights.  IIRC it  required just the use of a dull like table knife dull) probe to just pry the faux wood display surround off of a couple of spring clips in there.   But - I'm not positive so...
> 
> Anybody with a clue for me?
> 
> Clueless in WV,
> Bob
> 
> 
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