[s-cars] Ignition lock won't return from "start" to "run" position

[Tony]

Found this write up.

One thing. Always use an ignition switch from your local dealer. After market switches don't last long. Cost less than $50.

http://s-cars.org/site/1992-1997-audi-s4-s6-ignition-switch-replacement/

Good luck,

Tony

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 17, 2016, at 5:09 PM, Charles Baer <charlie at istari.com> wrote:
> 
> Be warned that you may not have yet broken any of the harder to fix parts of the cylinder assembly -- yet.  The symptoms you've described can be caused by just the plastic switch assembly failing and is easier to fix than the metal cylinder portions.  Parts of the cylinder can break without ever having the key stay in the start position, my avant had the switch tab on the cylinder core crack even though it was always returning to the run position.
> 
> The list archives would have several discussions about this, but I don't know how complete they are.  The web forums (that I rarely view) seem to have most of the knowledge that used to be passed around on the list, you might be able to find write-ups about replacing the switch if you dig around the quattroworld or other servers.
> 
> Charlie
> 
>> On 9/17/2016 2:22 PM, Tom Rodriguez wrote:
>> My ignition key will not spring back from the "start" position to the "run"
>> position after the engine starts.  This causes a host of problems if the car
>> is driven in this condition, since the starter motor is still spinning and
>> the electronics (lights, power windows, HVAC, etc.) are disabled.  I have
>> learned to manually turn the key ever so slightly back to the left to the
>> "run" position after the engine has started, being careful not to overshoot
>> the "run" position or the engine turns off and I have to start over.
>> 
>>  
>> I'm guessing the problem is a worn ignition lock cylinder.  Can anyone
>> confirm this based on my description and your own BTDT?  I looked on
>> Quattroworld and found the post on "How to replace the ignition lock
>> cylinder assembly".  Also, I assume that a new lock assembly will require a
>> new key, so I'll have one key for the ignition and another for the door
>> locks.  Correct?
>> 
>>  
>> Since the process involves removing the instrument cluster is there anything
>> else I should for preventive maintenance while I'm in there?  Should I
>> replace the starter switch even though the current one (the original) seems
>> to be working fine?
>> 
>>  
>> I'll appreciate any feedback.
>> 
>>  
>> Tom Rodriguez
>> 
>> '95 S6, 273K miles
>> 
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