[urq] No start woes

[Fluhr]

>Haven't checked the duty cycle since I didn't have any reference to
>determine where to measure it.  However, if it's the OXS Freq Valve
>duty cycle that you referred to above, since there's nothing buzzing,
>there might not be a duty cycle to measure.

At the passenger-side strut tower, there should be a two-pin test connector.  One
wire is brown, and the other is blue (might be blue-white, or blue with some other
color).  You should measure the duty cycle from the blue wire on that connector.
Unlike the ISV duty cycle, I do not think the frequency valve buzzes while the
engine is not running.  I can check on this, if someone else does not beat me to it.

An unlikely problem may be that you blew your hall sender.  BTDT, and had to use one
from an MC engine as a replacement.  I did this by accidentally shorting something
out on the ECU when it was powered, and I have never heard of it happening otherwise.

The MAC-02 code has built-in checking.  If one bit of the EPROM is flipped, it won't
work.  Testing the duty cycle is probably the best way to verify that the ECU is even
functioning correctly.

The other ignition-related items are the two flywheel sensors.  These fail pretty
rarely, though.  Not likely your problem.

Also, make sure that the cold-temp sensor on the block is working correctly.  The
car is very hard to start if it goes bad by shorting to the block (i.e. stays a
low resistance even when cold).  Again, this is unlikely to have gone bad based on
the work you did.

Is the cold-start relay working?  You can generally hear this pulse underneath the
dash when starting the car.

Later,
Eric