[urq] Vacuum Line Replacement

[Buchholz, Steven]

... you aren't serious are you?  Have you looked at all the lines running
around below the intake?  :-)  The stuff that you need the most of is the
small diameter tubing ... just buy a bunch of that stuff (10 feet?), and
then see what other sizes there are.  It's been a while since I've been in
there, so I don't remember how many sizes there were, but I'm pretty sure
there were three basic sizes.  The other sizes you probably don't need more
than a couple feet of.  I found the "correct" cloth braided stuff for not
that much money at a FLAPS.  Don't worry about buying too much of the small
stuff, it can be found in other places like the vacuum lines to the diff
actuators ... 

I would not suspect that a vacuum leak on a WX engine would have much of a
"warm up" nature.  There is *some* chance that the F/TCU is screwing up the
ignition timing due to the bad coolant temp gauge, but I'm even a bit
skeptical there.  I would be most suspicious of the fuel mixture myself.  In
fact, the thing that kicked my butt for the longest time turned out to be a
problem in the OXS Freq Valve drive circuit in the ECU.  For some reason the
circuit would not work properly until the engine had been running for a
while, and in my case the engine would idle fairly well, but run like crap
off idle ... even the slightest bit.  I started to clue in on it when I
noticed that I didn't hear the Freq Valve buzzing under the hood.  You
should be able to tell if there's an issue here by looking at the OXS Duty
Cycle.  The other thing to do is to check the control pressure curve and
system pressure with a fuel pressure gauge.  This is a very crucial control
variable for the engine, and it is fairly easy to plumb in the fuel pressure
gauge.  

Steve B.
San Jose, Kaleefohnia (USA)
> 
> So, next week I plan to replace the vacuum lines in the UrQ 
> as a matter of
> good measure.  I've been having a rough warmup with very 
> little power until
> about 4k rpm, crappy idle, etc. so it's the reverse of a 4k 
> rpm cutout, but
> at some point in warmup the car switches to running beautifully.  Just
> wondering if anyone knows off hand how much of each line to 
> buy and cut to
> length.
> 
> On the poor warmup front, though, the coolant temp sensor at 
> the front of
> the head measures 1561 ohms to ground when cold, hot, warm, 
> etc. so I'll be
> ordering one of those too, I guess.  It's my understanding it 
> should be
> over 1k cold and around 100 warm?
> 
> I'll get some duty cycle readings upon replacement then too.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Nathan Engelbert
> 83 UrQ 900453
> 
> 
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