[urq] n00b question time...

[Buchholz, Steven]

Do you remember hearing any vacuum "sucking" sounds as you did what you did
with the diff lock switch?  One common point of failure is the check valve
(which has been known to cause issues when the actuators attempt to switch
because boost rather than vacuum is applied!).  The vacuum plumbing is
parallel to both center and rear lock actuators on the stock '83 US models,
so if there is a diaphragm problem in one or the other, both can stop
working.  Fortunately the actuators aren't that difficult to get to ... jack
up the left rear corner and remove the wheel and you'll have all the access
you need ...

Steve B.
San Jose, Kaleefohnia (USA)
> 
> Thanks everyone.  That wasn't it, so I guess I'm digging 
> under the diffs 
> tomorrow.
> 
> >Depends on the year.
> >
> >Prior to 'E' vin (I think) the panel is held to the central 
> console by two
> >screws hidden inside the top of the ash tray. Remove the 
> ashtray flap and
> >you should be able to see them. Once the screw are out, lift 
> the base of the
> >panel away from the console to release some tabs along the 
> top of the panel.
> >
> >Later panels are held by a screw each side hidden under the 
> central console
> >trim strip. To release one of these panels you have to 
> remove the heater
> >control panel, radio and ashtray to reveal all the fixings 
> for the trim
> >strip.
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message ----- 
> >
> >>So how do I get the diff lock panel off?  I was hoping it would just
> >>sort of pop off, but it doesn't want to.  So how much disassembly is
> >>required?