[urq] Re: Window regulator cable repair

[Kneale Brownson]

There are different configuration and size (round, oblong, single strand,
double strand, etc.) cable crimp pieces available at a REAL hardware (not
your Home Depot style), along with different crimping tools for the
different fixtures.  The tools probably will cost you more than OEM cables
if they're still available.  The fixtures to go on the cable are relatively
inexpensive, but the crimpers are pretty pricey.  And you generally need a
different tool for each different size or configuration of crimp fixture.

At 10:56 AM 8/18/2004 -0400, Louis-Alain_Richard at computerhorizons.com wrote:
>Hi there,
>
>Good news. I _think_  I will be able to repair my urQ window reg. 
>
>The cable snapped at the most obvious spot (where else!), exactly where 
>the unprotected cable enters the sheath at the bottom of the track when 
>the window is up. 22 years of water runs, humidity and salt is too long a 
>period for a mild-steel cable. 
>
>So last night I removed the regulator, an easy job. It's a nice piece of 
>engineering; lightweight, small, efficient, easy ot install/remove. 
>Now, if the cable was a little better protected... 
>
>Guess how I stopped the window from going down? 
>Yes, a nylon strap attached at the bottom of the window, going up over the 
>window sill and attached to a hole in the door sheetmetal. 
>This way I can even open it by slacking the strap, just like the 60's 
>works rally Minis!
>
>Seriously, the regulator looks repairable, if I can find a 1.5 mm (1/16") 
>cable (will look at bike shops) and a way to crimp the 3 metallic crimps. 
>
>For the archives, the complete cable lenght is 2.10m, with the center 
>crimp at 90cm from the end crimp of the "gray" sheath. To be sure I will 
>not mix the sheaths/lenghts/parts when rebuilding, I attached the cable 
>"in position" and its sheaths to a plywood planck and I even made a 
>drawing of the attachements at the motor drum. 
>Hey!, one can learn from it's previous mistakes... 
>
>The sheats are 2 different lenghts, one is gray and short (bottom one, to 
>make the window go down) and one is black and long (upper one, makes the 
>window go up). 
>
>The sequence of the elements on the cable is:
>SMALL_END_CRIMP---plastic_guide---spring---plastic_tube---black_sheath---met
>al_bracket---BIG_MIDDLE_CRIMP---metal_bracket---gray_sheath---plastic_tube--
>-spring---plastic_guide---SMALL_END_CRIMP
>
>Obviously, the whole cable must be constructed like this BEFORE actually 
>doing any crimp!
>
>Will try to take pictures of the whole thing.
>Brady? Are you busy tonight? 
>
>
>Now, my question:
>A friend suggest me (for the crimps) to crush a 6mm nut over the cable 
>with a BFH. 
>I would like a more "elegant" solution, if one is available easily. 
>I think Dan Cordon asked this very same question not too long ago; what 
>did you find, Dan?
>
>
>More to follow!
>
>Louis-Alain
>1983 Quattro
>
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