[urq] Help needed: Door hinges pin replacement
Jim Haseltine
jim_haseltine at ntlworld.com
Fri Feb 27 17:52:00 EST 2004
Now you've got me thinking. If I don't have to head for Leeds tomorrow to
sort out a fuel line on a 85 Ur-q (replacing a leaking compression joint
tonight in the dark when it was snowing was not fun) I'll have a play around
with a screw press.
Regards,
Jim Haseltine
----- Original Message -----
From: "Huw Powell" <audi at humanspeakers.com>
To: "Jim Haseltine" <jim_haseltine at ntlworld.com>
Cc: "Louis-Alain Richard" <laraa at sympatico.ca>; "'Quattro List (E-mail)'"
<quattro at audifans.com>; <urq at audifans.com>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 10:33 PM
Subject: Re: [urq] Help needed: Door hinges pin replacement
>
> > The pin actually finishes flush with the bottom of the hinge.
> >
> > It just so happens that a couple of weeks ago I cut a large hunk of door
> > pillar from a scrap CGT. After I'd carefully removed the pieces I needed
I
> > was left with a piece that had the lower hinge attached. Because I had
> > nothing better to do for a few minutes I put the hinge in my vice and
> > punched out the pin.
> >
> > Not easy, it took some concentrated force, nothing like the light taps
that
> > I've used to remove Ford & Rover door pins. Doing this with the hinge
still
> > on the pillar would be difficult - I was about to suggest some sort of
press
> > would be easier but it would need to apply major pressure - the risk of
tool
> > failure wouold be high.
>
> > The pin is inserted from the top and is knurlled at the top end so will
only
> > come out upwards.
>
> Great info, Jim...
>
> I'm sort of thinking out loud here, since this is a fairly common
> coupe/UrQ issue I think (saggy doors).
>
> Knowing exactly how that pin is installed helps attack replacing it,
> which of course is the right way to fix the problem (my washer solution
> was because that pin looked permanently installed).
>
> In terms of pounding the old one out, I would worry about straining the
> sheet metal the hinge is welded to. I wonder if it could be "pressed"
> out, somehow? Either a small hydraulic rig with "C" shaped jaws, or
> maybe even a carefully set up "C" clamp could generate enough pressure?
> That way the mounting welds would not be affected.
>
> I would love to see pictures of any various stages of this process being
> done - especially if it ends up working properly!
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
>
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