[urq] engine removal photos

Mon Jun 21 16:36:18 EDT 2004

Steve-
Over the last 3 years I have had my car apart more than it was together (now
the ratio is coming back around) and here are my opinions;

You know this, but I'll say it anyway--be careful!  the "while you're in
there" syndrome can become very costly and time consuming...just look at our
friend Steve Eiche!

Here are my thoughts:

Take off the subframe.  Good time to R&R any front susp bushings.  Pull the
motor from below.  You should be able to do this with front valence still on
if you'd like.  In fact I know you can - just gotta get the front end up
high.  People have done it (removed motor) solo with just a floor jack -
last time I had a helper and we used two floorjacks.  POC! (piece o cake).
You can keep the radiator in place, but may want to remove aux rad.  I tied
the a/c compressor up with a wire hanger- you can keep it all connected.
You can keep the power steering pump hooked up, just bend it back and hold
it out of the way with wire hanger, temporarily.  I'm having a hard time
remembering, but I think you can just drop the motor with DP attached.
Double check this one, for sure.  Hmm as I think about this one you may want
to remove it as it hangs below the motor - somebody else chime in here.  A
good time to install Jeff Lewis firewall brace - I have yet to do this but
will get one one of these days.  Good time to replace motor mounts and of
course all belts.  If you are re-using the EM I would have it re-surfaced
while it's off the car.  A heat cycled EM that has later been surfaced is a
good thing, I understand.  I hate draining the coolant, so now is a very
good time to replace all the old lines as well as T-stat and of course water
pump hoses to the heater core, as well as the heater valve--these are a PITA
in situ.  The temp switch in the rad can be switched without losing more
than a few tablespoons of coolant, so I wouldn't worry about that if it
seems fine.

If the head was rebuilt, check the oil galley plugs, if the rebuilder
drilled them out.  One of mine was not sealed and caused a small leak that I
just figured out!  PITA!!!

That's all that comes to mind right now...hth

Brandon

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com>
To: <urq at audifans.com>
Sent: Monday, June 21, 2004 1:32 PM
Subject: RE: [urq] engine removal photos

> ... thanks for posting all this info Mike!
>
> This past weekend I started getting serious about putting my car back on
the
> road ... which means I need to resolve what's going on inside the
> bellhousing and I need to swap the head.  Originally I was planning to
drop
> the tranny to deal with the clutch, but since I've got engine work to do
too
> I was wondering if it might not be easier to pull the engine.  I'll need
to
> drain the coolant in either case, and the bellhousing will need to get
> separated too ... leaving the tranny in place will save me the effort of
> separating 3 drive flanges along with the risk of contamination.  I wanted
> to pass my thoughts by the list ... especially for those who have BTDT ...
> so any and all comments welcome ...
>
> I noticed that you dropped the sub frame, but I'm thinking that it may not
> be possible to get the engine alone out underneath ... so I'm planning to
> hoist the engine out of the bay.  Even going that way I know how much
easier
> it was to access the bottom of the engine compartment with the bumper and
> lower fascia removed, so I will probably start with that.  Next would come
> draining coolant and oil.  I would like to be able to remove the engine in
> as much a unit as possible, meaning the only interfaces would be the
flange
> at the back end of the downpipe, throttle body inlet, turbo compressor
side
> inlet and outlet coolant lines, heater lines, electrics to starter and
> alternator as well as the ground braid.  I'm not sure whether I'd prefer
to
> leave the oil cooler in place to minimize the risk of damaging the lines
or
> to leave the thing attached to the engine.  I'm thinking it would be best
to
> simply remove all fuel injection components and the radiator, and
disconnect
> all the wiring at the engine end.  I would like to leave the power
steering
> stuff intact, but I suppose it isn't a big deal to pull it ... any
> suggestions there?  I wonder if I'll be able to get the engine to clear
the
> transaxle with the core support in place?  The one picture that made me
> think was the one showing the downpipe going under the right propshaft ...
> perhaps I'll need to figure a way to rotate the engine in the bay before
> lifting.
>
> While the engine is out I was thinking about what other things to do to
the
> engine ... the clutch itself is almost brand new, but I'm thinking about
> pulling the flywheel so I can do the RMS ... and I'll probably replace the
> pilot bearing again.  I'll be installing the head that was originally on
the
> car when I bought it ... it has been freshened up in preparation for the
> reinstallation.  I suppose I can install that adjustable cam drive pulley,
> and I'm thinking of installing the alloy oil pan/windage tray now.  It was
> going to go on the new engine I'll build (one of these days) ... but it
> seems like I should start getting some use out of it now.  I don't know if
> there's anything more I can or should do to the engine.
>
> I'll appreciate hearing feedback from any of you who notice anything that
> I've missed, or have specific recommendations on some of the questions
I've
> asked ... downpipe attached or not?  power steering system attached or
not?
> oil cooler attached or not?  lift or drop engine?  any other "while your
> there" thoughts?
>
> Thanks!
> Steve B
> San Jose, CA (USA)
> >
> > Here is a dotphoto link to the photos of my engine removal
> > from my urq this weekend.  Looks like I won't be driving that car for a
> while.
> >
> > Notice there are a few pictures of Keith replacing his timing
> > belt on his S6.  I finished my job before he finished his.
> >
> http://www.dotphoto.com/Go.asp?l=quattro&P=&AID=1599109&GID=914647&T=1
>
> Mike Sylvester
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