[urq] UrQ's Head gasket progress

[Brandon Rogers]

>....   Being a Colorado car everything seems to come off a little bit
harder,

Huh , what?  Colorado cars come apart easy.  It's so dry here there is
_rarely_ rust.  In fact there have been/are several large car collections
kept here in various industrial buildings because of the dry climate.  Maybe
it lived somewhere else for a while.  Sheesh...trying to sully the name of
Colorado.......


> What I noticed -- none of the timing marks lined up!   Not the distributor
> rotor and corresponding mark, not cam wheel dimple and valve cover gasket
and
> not the "O" on the flywheel.   I couldn't get 2 of the 3 to line up???
OK the
> 10 million dollar question, which way does the motor spin?   Standing at
the
> front and looking at the engine it would appear that the engine spins
> clockwise.   If thats the case it would be my guess that the ignition is
detonating
> before TDC as the dimple in the cam is one notch counter-clockwise from
its mark
> when the distributor rotor is lined up with its mark...   Even so the
flywheel
> mark is no where to be seen.   FWIW it also appears that someone put a
white
> mark on the flywheel where the "O" is???   I checked through the old paper
> work and sure enough the timing belt and water pump where changed 7k ago.
>
> - Could this be a reason for the headgasket failure?
> - Is this the reason this car never seemed to have power?

Well, it almost seems a surprise it was running.  Do make sure you have it
lined up a TDC, not 180 degrees off.  Also make sure you are trying to line
up the indicators at the proper location, i.e. the "0" on the flywheel
should be lined up on the bottom of the window, and I believe, as Phil P
said, it should actually be bisected.  The mark on the back of the cam
pulley should line up to the top of the valve cover, not head, IIRC.  When I
first got my 10V head rebuild started up a  few years back..I had the cam
off by one tooth.  It had great low end power, but literally could not get
the thing to rev over ~4500-5000 rpm.....it got real rough and just did not
want to go any further.  Adjusted by one tooth and it made all the
difference.  As Steve B (I think) said, in essence, if you have any
uncertainty, get some other folks involved who can help out and "check your
work".

IMO opinion it's easier to remove head with manifolds and maybe DP attached.
2 person lifting job for the sake of your back.  If you're going to rebuild
the head, manifold removal anmd installation is so much easier out of car.
If you're not going to rebuild the head, then this way you won't have to
disturb the manifolds, especially the exhaust if it's not ticking or
_anything_.

Just my .02

Brandon
'84 ur

> Anyways I'm having a great time with tools.
>
> Mike Bond
> 2002 A4 1.8T
> 2 UrQ's getting the love
> 4KCS not getting the love
> 2001 GMC Yukon 30k with a piston slap.
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