[urq] Finally re-assembled engine and car...won't start

[Thatcher Hubbard]

Okay, I'll make sure that the '0' and the divot on the cam wheel are
where they ought to be, and then check the dizzy.

On the distributor, the way I lined it up was to line up the small
notch in the shutter window with the line on the outside of the
distributor body.  It looked pretty obvious.  The rotor itself is
pointing towards the front on the car (the smaller end with the copper
on it), slightly upwards.  That is indeed the location of the the
cylinder #1 contact.  I'll mess with it, test my sensors, etc. to make
sure I'm getting all the signals I need.


On Mon, 01 Nov 2004 11:06:38 -0800, Steve Eiche
<seiche at shadetreesoftware.com> wrote:
> Thatcher,
> Don't worry about the mark on the front crank pulley.  They are notoriously inaccurate.
> 
> The three things that MUST line up for the car to start are:  0 mark on flywheel with the notch in the bell housing (sounds like you got that), the divot in the cam sprocket with the top of the valve cover on the left side (check?), AND the timing marks in the distributor (I didn't see you reference this).  They must be lined up precisely, or it cannot start.  To check the distributor, pull the cap, rotor and plastic cover over the "shutter wheel".  You will see a line on this that must line up with the notch in the distributor body when the engine is at TDC.
> 
> Bet you $5 it is your distributor timing...
> 
> HTH!
> 
> Steve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, I think I know which one you're talking about, I thought it
> might be a ground strap, but now that I think about it, why would a
> ground strap be insulated.  It's a thick, black wire on my car.
> 
> When I was putting the timing belt back on the car, I was using three
> indicators for TDC: the divot in the cam wheel, the notch in the crank
> pulley and the '0' on the flywheel that's visible through the little
> window on the bellhousing.  The would not all line up, I spent a
> couple hours trying to get them to.  When I took the car apart I had
> noticed that was the case, so I ended up setting it the way it was
> when I took the car apart.  What I ended up with was the '0' and the
> notch on the crank being where the ought to be and the divot on the
> cam pulley being past the TDC mark.
> 
> Should I be able to put a multi-meter on the TDC sensor and get some
> sort of signal to assure that I've got that part of the equation
> right?
> 
>