[urq] Finally re-assembled engine and car...won't start

[Thatcher Hubbard]

Okay all,

  I went home at lunch and played around with my setup:  I turned the
dizzy about 2 degrees and started getting a spark.  The car started,
but ran a little rough and would not idle, so I'm thinking I may be a
tooth off on my timing belt, so I'm going to check that this evening.

  Thanks everyone for the advice.  I know it's been said a million
times here before, but I really don't think I'd be able to own this
car without the list to back me up and provide BTDT.


On Mon, 1 Nov 2004 11:18:05 -0700, Brandon Rogers <brogers at terrix.com> wrote:
> Use the "0" and the cam pulley marks.  The "0" on the flywheel should be
> "resting" on the botom of the window, and some say it should literally be
> cut in half, so to speak.  And make sure the dimple on the cam pulley lines
> up with the top of the head - not valve cover.  Don't use the notch in the
> crank pulley.  Once you have the "0" and cam pulley aligned- then double
> triple check your dizzy.
> 
> hth
> 
> Brandon
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Thatcher Hubbard" <thatcher.hubbard at gmail.com>
> To: <urq at audifans.com>
> Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 9:09 AM
> Subject: Re: [urq] Finally re-assembled engine and car...won't start
> 
> > Okay, I think I know which one you're talking about, I thought it
> > might be a ground strap, but now that I think about it, why would a
> > ground strap be insulated.  It's a thick, black wire on my car.
> >
> > When I was putting the timing belt back on the car, I was using three
> > indicators for TDC: the divot in the cam wheel, the notch in the crank
> > pulley and the '0' on the flywheel that's visible through the little
> > window on the bellhousing.  The would not all line up, I spent a
> > couple hours trying to get them to.  When I took the car apart I had
> > noticed that was the case, so I ended up setting it the way it was
> > when I took the car apart.  What I ended up with was the '0' and the
> > notch on the crank being where the ought to be and the divot on the
> > cam pulley being past the TDC mark.
> >
> > Should I be able to put a multi-meter on the TDC sensor and get some
> > sort of signal to assure that I've got that part of the equation
> > right?
> >
> >
> > On Mon, 1 Nov 2004 07:54:49 -0800, Wolff <wolff at turboquattro.com> wrote:
> > > The TDC sensor is in the top of the bell hosing. It reads a pin on the
> > > flywheel. It is a much more accurate way to measure the position of the
> > > crank than the hall sensor. However, being a 4 stroke motor, the pin
> passes
> > > the sensor twice for every revolution of the cam. The hall sensor is
> used to
> > > determine the correct pass of the pin to use for ignition timing. I have
> > > heard that this comparison only happens during the starting of the motor
> and
> > > once running, only the flywheel pin is used. However, on a 3B I know
> from
> > > experience that the ECU does check the hall sensor postion after the
> motor
> > > is running as well and will cut boost if there is a significant
> difference
> > > in relative position.
> > > HTH,
> > > Wolff
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Thatcher Hubbard" <thatcher.hubbard at gmail.com>
> > > To: <urq at audifans.com>
> > > Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 7:19 AM
> > > Subject: Re: [urq] Finally re-assembled engine and car...won't start
> > >
> > > > Okay, I'm glad to know that it's likely not that my coil has failed.
> > > > I know about the Hall sensor window and stuff, but where is the TDC
> > > > sensor?  I didn't even know these cars had one, I guess I thought
> > > > that's what the Hall sensor was for.
> > > >
> > >
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