[urq] Stumbling

[Thatcher Hubbard]

Yes Bill, it is an '83, and yes, it is early enough that it has the
under-dash fusebox.  I have had and solved one problem related to it
already, so it wouldn't be the biggest surprise.  The good news is
that it sounds like a relatively easy thing to do.  Heck, maybe it
will take care of my rear defroster not working too.

The only thing that worries me about this problem is that there are a
number of things that it could be (and it could be a combination of
them too), but I guess they are all things that would have crept up
eventually.  I'll probably start with the fusebox and then check the
contacts on my fuel pump and air temp sensor.


On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 02:01:54 -0500, W. Bremer <wbremer at maine.rr.com> wrote:
> Thatcher:
> you hve an '83, right?  where are the fuses?  If they are above the clutch,
> you may be having a problem with the fusebox and the wetched pin/plug
> connectors in that box.  I suspect that if the tach drops to zero, the
> engine is not actually firing.  It's a common problem for the '83s to get
> burnt pin/plugs into the fustrebox, or melted plugs , etc., expecially on
> the plug that has all the 12 volts supplying everything in the
> car--including the ECU--coming into it (has two largish red wires).  It is
> alleged that that fusebox is carrying a crrent load about 30% greter than
> its actual capacity. and the "environment" above the cluch can be damp, with
> poor air circulation, so copper corrosion forms, ading to the resistance and
> the heat, etc.
> 
> If all else fails, disconnect the battery, loosen and rotate the fuesbox so
> you can access the plugs with tearing up your hands, pull each of the five
> big plugs (they are not interchangeable) check the plugs and pins, clean 'em
> if necessary and spray them with the wurth Contact OPL or equivalent (to
> help conductivity and minimize corrosion).  That has solved similar problems
> on othjer '83s.  If your alternator light glows faintly (visible at night)
> or flashes faintly in time with the turn signals, checking the fusebox is a
> must.
> Bill
> 
> PS: there may be other sensors controlling the fuel pump relay, but one of
> them is the timing pin on the crank--if crank is not turning, the relay
> shuts down the fuel pump (prevents raw fuel from spraying all over in the
> event of a bad accident--one bad enough to shut down the motor).
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Thatcher Hubbard" <thatcher.hubbard at gmail.com>
> To: "Urq List" <urq at audifans.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 4:14 PM
> Subject: [urq] Stumbling
> 
> > My problem lingers, though I haven't been aggressively trying to fix
> > it.  But I noticed a couple more things that make me wonder if it's
> > not an electronic problem.
> >
> > First, when the problem happens, the revs drop, but I can hear the
> > engine still firing.  But, the tach drops to zero and then bounces
> > back up again right away.  It will do it when I'm off the throttle
> > (coasting) too.
> >
> > Second, which sensor is it that can cause the fuel pump to cut out?
> > The MAP sensor in the ECU?
> > _______________________________________________
> > Audifans urq mailing list
> > Send posts to: mailto:urq at audifans.com
> > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/urq
> > Have an urq question?  Check the Audifans Knowledgebase!
> > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/UrQuattro
> > Have an urq answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all
> contributions welcome!
> >
> 
>