[urq] I'm SO close to giving up

Tue Apr 19 10:52:53 EDT 2005

Ado makes a good point.  I have also done this test (and I might check this
one again), and found the same to be true.  I'm not sure if it indicates a
flaky switch or need for adjustment -- but IMO a likely cause for the
symptoms John has described.  Best to check resistance at the connectors
(with them removed, of course) and see when the FTS is activated and whether
the resistance changes or drops out as Full throttle is approached.  Can be
as simple as an adjustment or replacing the switch.

Ingo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ado Sigal" <a.sigal at bluewin.ch>
Cc: "Urq List" <urq at audifans.com>; "Chaplen, John" <John.Chaplen at mercer.com>
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2005 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: [urq] I'm SO close to giving up

> Two things should be also mentioned. First you should establish what is
> missing at WOT, the fuel or the spark. Spark can be easily checked by
> wiring the flash gun and running it through deliberately miss aligned
> bonnet, and taping it on the windscreen. That would take you on the
> right track.
> Second thing to check is the WOT switch operation. On two occasions I
> found on my ex GV engines, that the switch would close correctly at 3/4
> throttle, but would open again at close to WOT. After bending the leaver
> slightly, the symptoms similar to yours disappeared.
>
> HTH,
>
> Ado
>
>
> >
> >Ok....basic problem...Under "WOT" and boost the car stumbles...back off
> >the throttle just a TAD and car starts pulling strong again...
> >
> >What's been done...(not necessarily in this order)
> >
> >1 New fuel injectors - all lines checked and cleaned
> >2 fuel Dist checked, but rebuild anyways (with increased flow) - all
> >retested..seems no problem with flow.
> >3 Volume test done - Ok'd
> >4 Pressure test done - Ok'd
> >5 Back flow from Exhaust - NP there
> >6 Checked for the small filter ...no problem there
> >7 checked WOT and IDLE switch..all fine there
> >8 new cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires...
> >9 Volt at coil is 13-14 volts
> >10 all grounds clean and tested
> >11 Compression check + - 10psi between all 5 cyl
> >12 Pulled all 5 plugs, they all look fine, no damage, they all look the
> >same too...clean and right color...(bosch tri-electrodes)
> >13 Swapped ECU with known good one...still same problem
> >14 checked Waste gate for torn diaphragm - no problem there
> >15 New fuel filters (twice)
> >16 Boost is NOT passing 14 psi (chipped by SJM)
> >17 checked all hoses and removed them, they are fine.
> >18 I have backed boost down to less than 9psi still same symptoms
> >19 removed full throttle cable (thinking it might be a full throttle
> >mode) nope..
> >20 new and checked the Freq valve for duty cycle looks correct and can
> >hear it working
> >21 rebuilt alternator to make sure voltage/amps were not a problem
> >21 car passes DEQ SUPER clean...
> >
> >I guess my last question would be that I can think of, are there any
> >sensors that might be bad that would put the car into a reduced timing
> >mode?
> >
> >I have had Scott Mockery drive the car, and it's NOT a fuel cut out
> >issue (4K cut out).
> >
> >I just installed a fuel air meter box Wednesday, but have not had a
> >chance to run it...but from tests at idle with running WOT switch, it is
> >fully enriching as it should do...
> >and running and idle it's stoich? (sp)...I will be trying to drive it
> >this weekend to see if it's running too lean...But to me at this point I
> >feel like it's a timing issue?
> >
> >(NOTE- I have done all of the above to try to fix this problem)
> >
> >Any help would be so much appreciated!!!
> >
> >
> >
> >John Chaplen CNE
> >Mercer Human Resource Consulting
> >Portland, OR 97204-3693
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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